The Vault

Buenos Aires Archive / 460 Records

REF.0001JULY 2005

Cromagnon, Memories of Young Lives Lost

The kind of trauma that one never really gets over. The air around the sanctuary was heavy with the weight of thousands of shoes, each representing a life cut short.

Open Record
REF.0002APRIL 2005

Sundays in San Telmo

A barrio of cobblestone streets gracing the edges of the city´s oldest buildings. On Sundays, the flea market brings a chaotic energy that contrasts with the decaying grandeur.

Open Record
REF.0003MARCH 2005

Tour of Churches, Interrupted

Demonstrations form an integral part of the fabric that one encounters on a fairly regular basis in BsAs. Even a quiet tour of historical churches can become a front-row seat to political passion.

Open Record
REF.0004JUNE 2013

Mastering Calligraphy: From Buenos Aires to New York

In seeking the perfect for Ceci's birthday I wandered the bookstores & art stores of Manhattan. On a gray Saturday afternoon last month I sought out Rizzoli...

Open Record
REF.0005JANUARY 2013

Farewell to another bit of Buenos Aires

Last night I carried my two year old daughter down the steps of the Primera Junta subway stop in the neighborhood of Caballito. Mila had never ridden a subway...

Open Record
REF.0006OCTOBER 2012

An incredible photo tour of Buenos Aires

On Saturday I went on a photography tour that is a great way to experience Buenos Aires , and I strongly recommend that everyone place Fota Ruta high on a list...

Open Record
REF.0007OCTOBER 2012

Two free e-books to Buenos Aires

Soon

My e-book guide to 4 perfect days in Buenos Aires is now free! Written in 2009 the guide is a bit out-of-date but you might still find it very interesting. I...

Open Record
REF.0008AUGUST 2012

Sounds of tango in the air

Soon

Sitting at my desk today I've been hearing the voices of tango singers floating up towards my 7th floor balcony. With hundreds of other apartments visible from...

Open Record
REF.0009JUNE 2012

El Histórico in San Telmo

Soon

Last Friday for the May 25 holiday we ventured out to San Telmo (how I miss living there) to dine at El Histórico . (I forgot to bring a camera.) We enjoyed...

Open Record
REF.0010MAY 2012

Free app for Buenos Aires

Soon

To celebrate the long holiday weekend here in Argentina & the U.S. (as well as my return to blogging about Buenos Aires) the 4 Days in Buenos Aires app for...

Open Record
REF.0011MAY 2012

Fútbol fans: don't wake my baby...

A friend of mine says, "The most heroic task of a parent is getting their child to sleep each night." Ah, that's a challenge. Mila & I have our routine. It's...

Open Record
REF.0012MAY 2012

A Return to Buenos Aires

The inactivity on this blog was largely due to my absence from Buenos Aires for 2010 & 2011. I spent that time down on the coast of Argentina in a very small...

Open Record
REF.0013AUGUST 2011

Guided Tour of Recoleta Cemetery

Without a doubt, Recoleta Cemetery is the most enchanting spot in Buenos Aires. Even after dozens of visits I still discover a new aspect: a tomb gone...

Open Record
REF.0014MAY 2011

iPhone app: Buenos Aires in 4 Days

My personal recommendations (a tiny guidebook , if you will) for enjoying 4 perfect days in Buenos Aires: also available as an app for iPhone . You also can...

Open Record
REF.0015FEBRUARY 2011

Interlitq opens the door to the Spanish-speaking world

One of the things that keeps me too busy to blog often here is my work with The International Literary Quarterly , also known as Interlitq . One of the...

Open Record
REF.0016APRIL 2010

A Buenos Aires - Glasgow literary connection

Having returned earlier this month to Glasgow, the city of his birth, to attend the launch event for 40 Glasgow Voices , published recently in Issue 10 of The...

Open Record
REF.0017AUGUST 2009

Early Morning in Buenos Aires

Soon

Merely checking to see how this picasa->lighbox plugin works , this Flickr embed....BTW, this photo was taken very early one morning back in 2005 in the...

Open Record
REF.0018AUGUST 2009

It's another Borges birthday

Soon

Time to pause and read a bit of Borges on the 110th anniversary of his birth in Buenos Aires: August 24, 1899. If you're not sure where to start, here's my top...

Open Record
REF.0019AUGUST 2009

The "lovecraft" of reading in Argentina

Soon

I ventured inside a bookstore on Av Las Heras and was surprised to see on the front table an unexpected set of fiction works: a 3 volume collection of stories...

Open Record
REF.0020AUGUST 2009

Living in Recoleta

Long-time readers of this blog know that our Buenos Aires home was on the border of San Telmo and Barracas. But since last November we've been staying at a...

Open Record
REF.0021AUGUST 2009

Still living in Buenos Aires ... for a while

Soon

Our house in Mar del Sur is under renovation. We plan to move to the coast in December, right in time for the Argentine summer...yeah! That means I only have a...

Open Record
REF.0022JUNE 2009

A house near the sea

Ceci & I launched a new phase of our Buenos Aires adventures today with the purchase of a house in Mar del Sud We're not totally abandoning the city life for a...

Open Record
REF.0023JUNE 2009

Literature, traveling, & the artwork of Kenneth Draper & Jean Macalpine

Casual conversations often lead to unexpected discoveries. The other day I walked over to Palermo to have coffee with Peter Robertson and talk about future...

Open Record
REF.0024JUNE 2009

How little I know of this city

Last night I took a taxi from Recoleta out to Liniers, a barrio on the southwestern edge of the capital district of Buenos Aires. I tend to think that I know...

Open Record
REF.0025JUNE 2009

Learning Spanish in a Buenos Aires way

I was recently contacted by the folks at Miniature Studios about their new Spanish language learning product Bueno, entonces . [Disclaimer: Miniature Studios...

Open Record
REF.0026JUNE 2009

Buenos Aires Blog, Kindle Edition

Soon

For those travelers among you that use Kindle, this blog is now available via Kindle . I haven't used Kindle but my understanding is that blogs via Kindle can...

Open Record
REF.0027JUNE 2009

Writing matters

Soon

Just an update on some writing things involving some expats that have a home in Buenos Aires.... Peter Robertson & I have released the latest issue of The...

Open Record
REF.0028JUNE 2009

Argentine politics everywhere

Mid-term elections are coming up quickly & if you live here then you can't escape the media blitz by all the politicians. Even today when I went to my RSS...

Open Record
REF.0029APRIL 2009

Farewell to Alfonsín

Soon

This afternoon Ceci & I met up with Robert to stake out a spot on Av Callao to watch the funeral procession of former President Raul Alfonsín . After the...

Open Record
REF.0030MARCH 2009

Plaza de Mayo, 1898

Not a very good quality photograph but shows a festive Plaza de Mayo for Christmas 1898.

Open Record
REF.0031FEBRUARY 2009

Carnaval, Buenos Aires

Open Record
REF.0032FEBRUARY 2009

Argentina on priority watch list for copyright piracy

Soon

Argentina is on the 2009 priority watch list of the International Intellectual Property Alliance . Sounds ominous sharing the list with China, Pakistan, and...

Open Record
REF.0033FEBRUARY 2009

Buenos Aires photos, 1870-1880

Till the end of the month (March 1, 2009) there's a little photo exhibition at Centro Cultural Recoleta that is worth viewing. Featured are photos of the city...

Open Record
REF.0034FEBRUARY 2009

Another flood photo for a rainy day

A companion to last week's photo .

Open Record
REF.0035FEBRUARY 2009

Bringing Borges back from the dead

Soon

A proposal before the Argentine congress aims to bring the remains of Jorge Luis Borges from his burial place in Geneva to Argentina where the writer would be...

Open Record
REF.0036FEBRUARY 2009

A flood in Buenos Aires

Okay, yesterday's little rain shower wasn't a flood but I'm sure all of us in Buenos Aires enjoyed the cooler weather. Reminded me of this wonderful old photo,...

Open Record
REF.0037FEBRUARY 2009

Ghosts may be easier to find in the U.S. than in Buenos Aires

Soon

Ever since hearing that New Directions Publishing was releasing an English translation of César Aira's Los Fantasmas ( Ghosts ) in 2009, I've been searching...

Open Record
REF.0038FEBRUARY 2009

More Argentine authors out in the world

Soon

In preparation for Argentina as the guest of honor country at the 2010 Frankfurt Book Fair, the government of Argentina is announcing a new program to...

Open Record
REF.0039JANUARY 2009

The Well-heeled Friends of Art

A few days still remain to catch the Amigos del Arte exhibition at MALBA . (... till February 9.) Curators Patricia M. Artundo y Marcelo E. Pacheco have...

Open Record
REF.0040JANUARY 2009

An E-book Guide to 4 Perfect Days in Buenos Aires

Visiting Buenos Aires & looking for what to do? This guide presents one way of experiencing Buenos Aires, the way I recommend to my own friends on their first...

Open Record
REF.0041JANUARY 2009

Holiday scenes from Parque Lezama, 1898

I always will have great memories of Parque Lezama. I've spent many hours strolling around the park. Sure, on weekends it's rather dusty and crowded but...

Open Record
REF.0042DECEMBER 2008

Celebrating the New Year in Palermo

A sketch of the nightlife on New Year's 1898 from Buenos Aires magazine. Happy New Year to everybody!

Open Record
REF.0043DECEMBER 2008

2009 Buenos Aires Calendar

A 2009 Walking Buenos Ayres calendar is one of the projects we've been working on. It's easily shipped from the manufacturer to you in the U.S. or wherever...

Open Record
REF.0044NOVEMBER 2008

Argentine writers to read in Spanish (& maybe in English someday)

Soon

Wandering the bookstores in Buenos Aires, looking for good fiction by an Argentine writer but you're already read enough of Borges, Bioy, & Cortazar? A local...

Open Record
REF.0045NOVEMBER 2008

If only the anti-Chavez forces don't kill me,

Soon

I was wakened from a dream the other morning....Ceci and I were visiting a small gathering spot, some type of bar or cafe that our friend Nestor had...

Open Record
REF.0046NOVEMBER 2008

a story

Soon

My short story, "Forever Unaware" , was recently published in Paradigm . Update (2014): the links are no longer active.

Open Record
REF.0047NOVEMBER 2008

In Buenos Aires with Lovecock

Soon

I enjoy reading travelogues about places all around the world, though there is a certain sameness to them all after a while. With Argentina's bicentennial...

Open Record
REF.0048NOVEMBER 2008

A house on Peru

For a couple of years I've been intending to take a photo of this house on Peru street, just around the corner from where I live. Just wished I had taken the...

Open Record
REF.0049NOVEMBER 2008

Notable buildings that are no longer

While browsing around a bookstore in San Telmo today I found a volume of photographs that fits perfectly with my City that Fades Away series: Arquitecturas...

Open Record
REF.0050OCTOBER 2008

Calles y avenidas

Borges felt that the calles , the streets, of Buenos Aires formed an integral part of his being, his soul. Traveling on these strands of cobblestone and...

Open Record
REF.0051OCTOBER 2008

Farewell, Mother Earth

This goes into the category of things you don't miss if you didn't ever know it was there . For some time during my early visits to Parque Lezama I never...

Open Record
REF.0052OCTOBER 2008

Discarded in Barracas

This falls into the you never know what you'll find on the streets of Buenos Aires category....a reel of magnetic tape, dated 1983 - 1984 , tossed out onto the...

Open Record
REF.0053OCTOBER 2008

Top 10 things to do in Buenos Aires

Soon

Wow, a month has gone since I've last posted on this blog...a writing project has been keeping me away...it's hard to keep up with all my projects - writing on...

Open Record
REF.0054SEPTEMBER 2008

Old house in Barracas

The block of Peru street between Av Caseros and Finochietto has a lot of appeal though parts are still in rather bad shape. Here's a wonderful old house that...

Open Record
REF.0055AUGUST 2008

The Lost Valentine

Soon

Yesterday's post on Walter Benjamin's The Arcades Project mentioned a surprise that came with the book. It's not that unusual to find odd things in used books...

Open Record
REF.0056AUGUST 2008

The last book I will ever read

Soon

For weeks I've been waiting for a shipment of books from the U.S. Finally, today, a notice arrived and that meant a trip down to Retiro and the international...

Open Record
REF.0057AUGUST 2008

The blank pages of Aira

Soon

...this post continues yesterday's odd encounters in the bookstores along Florida street... Argentine writer César Aira never seems to struggle with the...

Open Record
REF.0058AUGUST 2008

Nazis in Bariloche & other odd encounters

Soon

I had some time to kill this afternoon on Florida street so I wandered into a few bookstores. One of the most bizarre guidebooks to Argentina that caught my...

Open Record
REF.0059AUGUST 2008

How much do you want to know?

Soon

This afternoon at the café I read a book review which proceeded to tell me way more than I wanted to know about the book prior to reading it. I immediately...

Open Record
REF.0060AUGUST 2008

Things to think about when walking

Soon

I've spent the last few weeks working with fellow Buenos Aires resident Peter Robertson to produce the latest issue of The International Literary Quarterly . I...

Open Record
REF.0061AUGUST 2008

Loft for Sale in San Telmo

Soon

There's a nice loft apartment for sale in my building on Av Caseros . It's a nice, quiet place to live. Priced at $160,000.

Open Record
REF.0062AUGUST 2008

I can't write anymore

...at the computer. Actually, I've never been much to write at the keyboard (even though I'm an excellent typist). Anything thoughtful always meant pen to...

Open Record
REF.0063JULY 2008

Buying Che from the deaf man

Perhaps my friends in Miami at the Cuban Heritage Collection would be disappointed in me....yesterday while I was reading in Bar Britanico a deaf man, who...

Open Record
REF.0064JULY 2008

The city is ...

Live in the city long enough and you may cease to notice its core: a collective living and working environment for as many people as possible.

Open Record
REF.0065JULY 2008

Dreaming of Argentine Politics

Soon

I stayed up till early morning watching the Argentine senate debate and subsequent vote on the agricultural retenciones . Since I generally stay awake till 3am...

Open Record
REF.0066JULY 2008

Cover art of old tango music scores

Browsing around the stalls at the mercado de San Telmo reveals some enchanting relics buried amidst an exhausting range of junk. On Saturday we came away with...

Open Record
REF.0067JULY 2008

Behind the walls at the cabaret show

I'm really trying to post more often, after being mostly absent from this blog last month. But today, I've not even gotten out of the house. So I decided to...

Open Record
REF.0068JULY 2008

The Authentic Bars, Cafés, & Restaurants of Buenos Aires

The other day I received in the mail a review copy of The Authentic Bars, Cafes, and Restaurants of Buenos Aires by Gabriela Kogan. There is a serious lack of...

Open Record
REF.0069JUNE 2008

Music on the bus

This guy playing guitar on the 39 today was not too bad.

Open Record
REF.0070JUNE 2008

Borges & Macedonio Fernández

Macedonio Fernández was an enigmatic figure shadowing over the literary scene in Buenos Aires during the early 20th century. In a new essay published in The...

Open Record
REF.0071JUNE 2008

Cool weather & coffee time in Buenos Aires

I've been anticipating the arrival of the cool weather that accompanies autumn and winter. We seemingly have skipped fall and landed right in the midst of a...

Open Record
REF.0072JUNE 2008

Obama's search for a VP leads to Argentina

Soon

I don't like mixing politics with my blogs, though while prowling the Huffington Post (another thing I don't do too often) I came across this analysis of...

Open Record
REF.0073MAY 2008

Catastrophe at Bolivar & Independencia

I don't have much time for blogging lately, but this can't go unmentioned....another sad episode for the City that Fades Away series. Before and a different...

Open Record
REF.0074MAY 2008

accidentally deleted some comments in WordPress

Soon

Guess I'm still getting adjusted to the WordPress 2.5 admin interface (only fellow WordPress bloggers will understand)... I just accidentally deleted the last...

Open Record
REF.0075MAY 2008

Late Saturday afternoon at Britanico

Opposite me in Britanico a man sits, tapping his fingers against the table while assorted persons wander in and out of the café selling pens, socks, jewelry,...

Open Record
REF.0076APRIL 2008

Buenos Aires maps from 1912 & 1916

One of my librarian friends back in the U.S. sent me a link to a project by the University of Chicago library: Late 19th- and Early 20th-Century Latin American...

Open Record
REF.0077APRIL 2008

Back at the Britanico

I find myself at Bar Britanico a lot lately and blogging about its occasional celebrity clientele or El Hipopotamo across the street . But I've realized from...

Open Record
REF.0078APRIL 2008

Hotel Metropol

Soon

Another for the City that Fades Away series.... The basta de demoler blog chronicles the demolition of the historic architecture in Buenos Aires. Their posts...

Open Record
REF.0079APRIL 2008

Reporting on books & editing

Soon

Chad W. Post of the Three Percent blog , an excellent source of information on literature in translation, is in Buenos Aires for the annual book fair and a...

Open Record
REF.0080APRIL 2008

Irish Sportsmen in Argentina

Soon

As someone with Irish ancestry (way, way back), I've written a bit before about Irish immigration to Argentina . A great resource for this topic is the...

Open Record
REF.0081APRIL 2008

Legendary figures

Soon

Who are the legendary figures of Buenos Aires? Obviously, Eva Peron is the most known (along with hubby Juan). Among those who read, Borges is legendary. Among...

Open Record
REF.0082APRIL 2008

Identifying with the mad

What do you write about when you don't know what to write? Or, when you're filled with thoughts, each competing for attention, seeking expression? I find...

Open Record
REF.0083APRIL 2008

Drawing Buenos Aires

I wish I could draw, but I can't. If I could draw, then I would spend a lot of time drawing the architecture of Buenos Aires. The best set of architecture...

Open Record
REF.0084APRIL 2008

Just something different...

Soon

I spend a lot of my time in Buenos Aires scratching marks on paper...some of it comes out like this .

Open Record
REF.0085APRIL 2008

The view from the other side

Last month I posted a photo from the window of El Hipopótamo , looking across Defensa street towards Bar Britanico. So, now here's the opposite view: I've been...

Open Record
REF.0086MARCH 2008

Coppola, Gallo, a llama, & a police chase

Soon

About midday I headed over to my "office" (aka Bar Britanico) to edit a manuscript. At one point I start hearing a guy speaking in English at the table behind...

Open Record
REF.0087MARCH 2008

Planning your trip to Buenos Aires

I'm about to head out of town for a week without Internet and computer, yeah! But before I leave I want to mention the first title in the Walking Buenos Aires...

Open Record
REF.0088MARCH 2008

Just another afternoon of edits

These days I'm busy editing a book on architectural photography. To get away from the computer for a while I often take a manuscript to a cafe. Today it was El...

Open Record
REF.0089MARCH 2008

Store on Defensa in San Telmo

Here's a photo that I've been intending to put up for a long time. Actually, I see that I took this photo last April! I'm really behind on my blogging....

Open Record
REF.0090MARCH 2008

Sidewalk mosaic

Maybe it's just me, but I find something quite beautiful about the cracked, old sidewalk tiles. Seen on Billinghurst .

Open Record
REF.0091MARCH 2008

Books of yesterday, but not houses of yesterday

While on last week's walk down Billinghurst I came across this bookstore located on the ground floor of an older building. Somehow, it seemed ironic that just...

Open Record
REF.0092MARCH 2008

a face on the ground

Yesterday while walking down Tacuari just after a brief rain shower, I saw this photograph lying on the sidewalk. My first assumption was that someone had lost...

Open Record
REF.0093FEBRUARY 2008

Architects of Buenos Aires

Soon

The architects of Buenos Aires have left some of the most vivid impressions on the surface of this city. Stunning facades and architectural details are among...

Open Record
REF.0094FEBRUARY 2008

Down Billinghurst & Virrey Liniers

A walk down Billinghurst enables you to see the diversity of neighborhoods in Buenos Aires. The northern terminus of Billinghurst at Av del Libertador in...

Open Record
REF.0095FEBRUARY 2008

Literary walking tour of Buenos Aires

I don't know if anyone offers a literary walking tour of Buenos Aires, but if you read Spanish then you can grab a copy of Al pie de la letra: guía literaria...

Open Record
REF.0096FEBRUARY 2008

International literary journals

Soon

I've been working recently with part-time Buenos Aires resident Peter Robertson to help get Issue 2 of the International Literary Quarterly ready. There is...

Open Record
REF.0097FEBRUARY 2008

English language bookstores in Buenos Aires

Soon

Searching for that perfect book in English during your stay in Buenos Aires? The good folks over at Argentina's Travel brings you " Buenos Aires' Brilliant...

Open Record
REF.0098FEBRUARY 2008

Understanding football in Argentina

Soon

Football is one of the most vital aspects of life for most men in Argentina. But I must admit that football in Argentina is a topic in which I only know the...

Open Record
REF.0099FEBRUARY 2008

How to fall in love with Buenos Aires

There are many fun things to do in Buenos Aires and, on this Valentine's Day, here are some ways of falling in love with the city of Buenos Aires: Enjoy the...

Open Record
REF.0100FEBRUARY 2008

Victims of Anarchy in Recoleta Cemetery

Soon

Recoleta Cemetery is one of those places where you always learn something new and Robert's AfterLife site gives a fresh dose of those creepy yet beautiful...

Open Record
REF.0101FEBRUARY 2008

Tenants strike againt high rent

Soon

Ituzaingo is a quiet, shady street just beyond the southern edge of San Telmo. Nothing suggest this street as the source for a social movement in 1907 that...

Open Record
REF.0102JANUARY 2008

Buenos Aires Opera: The Opening Season of Teatro Colón, 1908

Soon

With the renovation of Teatro Colón behind schedule, which shouldn't surprise anyone, the theater will not be ready for its 100th anniversary on May 25th. I...

Open Record
REF.0103JANUARY 2008

I don't go looking for this stuff

I promise to get back to some postings about things other than the city that fades away series. (I have an upcoming set of posts about opera in Buenos Aires)....

Open Record
REF.0104JANUARY 2008

Buenos Aires & Real Estate Development, a Dream City

Some people obviously look around Buenos Aires and see tremendous opportunity. A large population, crumbling buildings, cheap labor, and apparently little...

Open Record
REF.0105JANUARY 2008

Another demolition on Piedras

Yes, it's time for another entry in the City that Fades Away series. On the way to the fish market Saturday I saw this building on Piedras that is getting...

Open Record
REF.0106JANUARY 2008

Italian Immigration to Argentina

Soon

One of my particular topics of interest is immigration to Argentina, particularly Eastern European, Jewish or Italian immigration but also from other countries...

Open Record
REF.0107JANUARY 2008

A study of César Aira

Soon

At some point around two this morning I finally got around to reading this thoughtful essay by fellow San Telmo resident Marcelo Ballvé, The Literary Alchemy...

Open Record
REF.0108JANUARY 2008

Borges on the Planet of the Blind

Soon

I've started reading the blog Planet of the Blind by author Stephen Kuusisto , who has been "legally blind" since birth. In a post titled " Spoons in the Snow...

Open Record
REF.0109JANUARY 2008

Villa Ocampo

Went up to San Isidro to visit the home of Villa Ocampo , one of the homes of Victoria Ocampo. The Web site for Villa Ocampo is actually quite good and...

Open Record
REF.0110JANUARY 2008

Reader contributed photos

One of my readers here in Buenos Aires, Dolores, sent me the following photos of abandoned or taken houses for the City that Fades Away series. Catamarca y...

Open Record
REF.0111DECEMBER 2007

Heartbreaking photos

Soon

if you like old houses

Open Record
REF.0112DECEMBER 2007

Virrey Cevallos & Carlos Calvo

Here's a lovely building on the corner of Virrey Cevallos and Carlos Calvo in Constitución. All the doors are boarded and the building appears to be vacant. I...

Open Record
REF.0113DECEMBER 2007

Democracy's Failure in Argentina

That attention-grabbing headline could have been written about several periods of Argentine history in the 20th century but this particular instance is from...

Open Record
REF.0114DECEMBER 2007

Honoring Girondo at the Xul Solar Museum

Finally, finally made it over to the Homage to Girondo at the Xul Solar Museum. Today is the last day of the two month exhibition, so if you didn't make it...

Open Record
REF.0115DECEMBER 2007

"Out of the Woods Now" on Bioy

Soon

Out of the Woods Now is one of those good literary blogs you should be reading if you're interested in such things...A posting from earlier this week is on The...

Open Record
REF.0116DECEMBER 2007

Fiesta de la Democracia

Soon

Some photos from Monday's Fiesta de la Democracia in Plaza de Mayo. The crowd wasn't nearly as large as it looks in the photos or on TV. Everybody was crammed...

Open Record
REF.0117DECEMBER 2007

Flowers for Presidenta Cristina

Soon

Yesterday I walked down to Av de Mayo to witness the inauguration day parade of Cristina Fernández de Kirchner. Scores of buses that had carried people in from...

Open Record
REF.0118DECEMBER 2007

Free E-Book on Buenos Aires

I've prepared a free e-book on Buenos Aires pulled from the archives of my blog. The e-book is 57 pages . There is still a lot more content in the archives...

Open Record
REF.0119DECEMBER 2007

Any doubts as to a real estate boom in Barracas?

Ok, this will be the last in my recent postings about demolished houses and new construction in Barracas. That is, unless I come across some other...

Open Record
REF.0120DECEMBER 2007

Now this, you can tear down

This belonged to a recently emptied space on Montes de Oca, though I do rather like the curve of the balcony and the awning over the upper door. Both reminds...

Open Record
REF.0121NOVEMBER 2007

Another place gone

Soon

Part 42,748 in the City that Fades Away series. Yesterday I walked over to the Easy in Barracas to buy a lamp for my writing desk. On the way I came across...

Open Record
REF.0122NOVEMBER 2007

Basílica Nuestra Señora de la Piedad

Soon

Amid the exhaust of traffic, tucked away on a side street in the center of the city is a glorious church that is likely visited by few foreigners (though Pope...

Open Record
REF.0123NOVEMBER 2007

Santa Catalina on the firetruck

Soon

Sitting home on a quiet Sunday reading the newspapers, then there's all this noise outside...sirens, loudspeakers, drums...sounds like a demonstration of some...

Open Record
REF.0124NOVEMBER 2007

The ugly & the beautiful along Av de Mayo

Soon

I was going through my photos from September to see if I had anything to share with you. I found this perspective of these side-by-side buildings on the 800...

Open Record
REF.0125NOVEMBER 2007

What's out of place in this photo?

Soon

Earlier this week I was giving Donald, a faithful blog reader and new friend from New York, a walking tour of Flores. We took the A line out to Caballito, then...

Open Record
REF.0126NOVEMBER 2007

Where is this nice street in Buenos Aires?

Soon

Clean streets, charming houses, shady trees.... . . . . . . I suspect that most people would never guess the right answer: La Boca. I'm keeping the exact name...

Open Record
REF.0127NOVEMBER 2007

Modernizing Palermo

Soon

Ian over at GoodAirs has a good post about the demolition of old houses in Palermo to make way for more apartment towers. The post fits in well with my ongoing...

Open Record
REF.0128NOVEMBER 2007

The Definitive Guide to Recoleta Cemetery

Every visit to Recoleta Cemetery reveals a tomb, a statue, a plaque that I've not seen before. Just visiting the cemetery in the morning rather than afternoon...

Open Record
REF.0129NOVEMBER 2007

Guides, Tours, & Sightseeing

You've researched the trip, planned the itinerary, booked the reservations, and now you're ready for the onslaught: a week or two of rushing around trying to...

Open Record
REF.0130NOVEMBER 2007

Borges in Ireland

Soon

Irish writer Keith Ridgway has a post on his blog about Borges in Ireland and how a 5 year-old Ridgway met the Argentine writer in 1971.

Open Record
REF.0131NOVEMBER 2007

Dreaming of Argentina and Tango

Soon

I try to look in, even briefly, on the blogs by travelers to Buenos Aires. Most cover the same familiar territory, some offer helpful tips for the tourists,...

Open Record
REF.0132NOVEMBER 2007

A classic deep on the southside

This spot should certainly find itself on Robert's upcoming map of Barracas. Way down at the corner of Montes de Oca and California is Bar El Progreso. A sign...

Open Record
REF.0133OCTOBER 2007

The Essential Guidebooks

In late summer 2001, while I was living in South Beach, a young French couple rented a room in my house for a month. One day Adrian was looking over my...

Open Record
REF.0134OCTOBER 2007

Barraca Peña, the old train station in La Boca

Soon

Tucked down along the smelly river in La Boca is one of the oldest (or, dating from 1865, is it the oldest?) train stations in Buenos Aires, Barraca Peña. If...

Open Record
REF.0135OCTOBER 2007

The desire to travel

Why do we travel? Why do we have that desire, that yearning, to visit far away places? What is it about our lives that we seek to fulfill elsewhere? Perhaps,...

Open Record
REF.0136OCTOBER 2007

"Borges and I" & the philosophy of self and language

Soon

John Perry , a professor in the philosophy department at Stanford, recently gave a lecture at Amherst College titled \" ”˜Borges and I’ and ”˜I’ ”. (via...

Open Record
REF.0137OCTOBER 2007

Topless in La Boca

Soon

Away from the tourist circuit in La Boca stands this abandoned building, which is missing most of its roof. Along the side street, a small opening in the wall...

Open Record
REF.0138OCTOBER 2007

The obligatory post-election post

Soon

Not much to say about today's presidential election in Argentina, certainly no surprises. I don't have a problem with a Cristina presidency. Indeed, all the...

Open Record
REF.0139OCTOBER 2007

Fogwill & Malvinas Requiem

Soon

The good folks at Three Percent have a couple of mentions about Argentine writer Rodolfo Fogwill whose novel Los Pichiciegos has just been released in English...

Open Record
REF.0140OCTOBER 2007

Corner of Yerbal & Paysandu

Soon

I was looking through my photos from this month and it took me a minute to realize where this corner was located. In my "walking tours" around Buenos Aires I...

Open Record
REF.0141OCTOBER 2007

Casa Fernández Blanco

Soon

Earlier this month on la Noche de los Museos I had the chance to go inside the Casa Fernández Blanco (not to be confused with the building that is the Museo de...

Open Record
REF.0142OCTOBER 2007

Women and Power in Argentine Literature

Soon

I've never been much interested in reading literature from the perspective of how characters either exercise or are subjected to power in a story's context....

Open Record
REF.0143OCTOBER 2007

A Painting by Minkowski

Soon

Two years ago I wrote a post about Maurycy Minkowski , a Polish-Jewish artist whose life came to a tragic end shortly after arriving in Buenos Aires. Earlier...

Open Record
REF.0144OCTOBER 2007

Spotlight on Barracas

Seems like everybody is talking about Barracas these days. Robert is busy mapping points of interest in Barracas and yesterday I was joined on a walk around...

Open Record
REF.0145OCTOBER 2007

Publishing & Translating, International and Argentine Perspectives

Soon

TO BE TRANSLATED OR NOT TO BE (pdf) is a new report on the "international situation of literary translation" produced by International PEN and the Institut...

Open Record
REF.0146OCTOBER 2007

El Sol de San Telmo

Soon

There's an exciting new community newspaper for the San Telmo neighborhood: El Sol de San Telmo The first issue came out this month and can be found at various...

Open Record
REF.0147OCTOBER 2007

Unexpected encounters with writers

Soon

One of my favorite writers that I've started to read during these past couple of years living in Buenos Aires is not an Argentine but an Englishman who spent...

Open Record
REF.0148OCTOBER 2007

South America in the Early 21st Century

Soon

Grown weary of those cliché articles about traveling to South American cities, the stylized descriptions of snazzy hotels and restaurants imitating trends...

Open Record
REF.0149OCTOBER 2007

Abandoned at Chacabuco & Brasil

Soon

...another in the city that fades away series... A couple of years ago this building was the headquarters for one of the leftist political groups. I forget...

Open Record
REF.0150OCTOBER 2007

Dropping out of 9rules

Soon

At the end of 2006 Buenos Aires, City of Faded Elegance was accepted into the 9rules blogging network. I felt very honored to be accepted into the 9rules...

Open Record
REF.0151OCTOBER 2007

The parking lot that was a house

Soon

Yesterday I wrote about the protest in front of the building right next door to where I live . Today we swing over to other side of my building. Today is it a...

Open Record
REF.0152OCTOBER 2007

Eviction protest in San Telmo/Barracas

Soon

I write this post to the sounds of drums just outside my apartment building on Av Caseros. (It's not the first time that I've been awaken to the sound of drums...

Open Record
REF.0153OCTOBER 2007

Historic Aerial Photos of Buenos Aires

Soon

I spent some time today playing around with a very cool interactive map of Buenos Aires developed by the city government. Warning: you can find yourself...

Open Record
REF.0154SEPTEMBER 2007

Jorge Luis Borges: The Mirror Man

Soon

The Mirror Man is an excellent documentary about Jorge Luis Borges. I recently learned (via flameape ) that the documentary is available online at UBUWEB , a...

Open Record
REF.0155SEPTEMBER 2007

Shuttered on Cabello

Soon

Robert and I were walking around Palermo the other day and came across this nice old house with its window shuttered on Cabello. I'm not sure if someone is now...

Open Record
REF.0156SEPTEMBER 2007

Good advice on the bus

Soon

On the #10 bus the other day I saw this sign above the exit door .... good advice to remember as you're stepping out into the world or returning to your home:...

Open Record
REF.0157SEPTEMBER 2007

A united Argentina-Germany

Soon

There was a rather odd sight in downtown Buenos Aires on Thursday as the city's landmark Obelisco was draped in fabric displaying the national colors of...

Open Record
REF.0158SEPTEMBER 2007

A relaxing afternoon in Plaza San Martín

Soon

Open Record
REF.0159SEPTEMBER 2007

Iglesia de San Ignacio

Soon

Walking back last night from the Julio López march I turned down Bolívar and was pleased to see that the scaffolding and support structures finally have been...

Open Record
REF.0160SEPTEMBER 2007

"We are all López"

Soon

...against the side of the Cabildo before a march to mark the disappearance of Jorge Julio López one year ago.

Open Record
REF.0161SEPTEMBER 2007

Citizen journalism & future of newspapers in Argentia

Soon

Shel of the quite interesting Global Neighborhoods blog has a post about Ignacio Escribano & the Argentine citizen journalism/social media site Igooh (a...

Open Record
REF.0162SEPTEMBER 2007

A return to South America from the American South

Soon

I returned to Buenos Aires this weekend after a short trip to visit family in Tennessee. Fortunately I wa able to get a cheap flight from using my frequent...

Open Record
REF.0163AUGUST 2007

A Tree Grows Around It

Soon

If you take the bus in Buenos Aires, which you should do sometime, you will have discovered that some of the bus stops are hard to find. Some bus stops, like...

Open Record
REF.0164AUGUST 2007

Soon to be gone on Piedras

Soon

This is why I started the City that Fades Away series . Architecture is one of the distinguishing aspects of Buenos Aires. I'm perplexed whenever...

Open Record
REF.0165AUGUST 2007

A new hotel for Puerto Madero

Soon

There's a new hotel that has been going up over the last year near Puerto Madero. It's not on the level of competing with the Hilton or the Faena but could...

Open Record
REF.0166AUGUST 2007

The naked guy on Av de Mayo

Soon

I never tire of walking down Av de Mayo. Even though I've walked the avenue many times, I always gain a new perspective. Perhaps it's just observing the...

Open Record
REF.0167AUGUST 2007

The Little Wagon on Bolívar

Soon

Yet another mystery as to why an old wagon is sitting in front of this house in Barracas....just another one of those daily sights that make Buenos Aires such...

Open Record
REF.0168AUGUST 2007

On Garay

Soon

Nothing outstanding to say here. I just liked the looks of these buildings.

Open Record
REF.0169AUGUST 2007

Anyone know the story

of this guy? I came across this photo taken by Esteban Diacono (who, BTW, has some great photos) the other day when I was browsing through Flickr . But, I've...

Open Record
REF.0170AUGUST 2007

"This is not Palermo"

Soon

Following-up to the post about trendy stores coming into San Telmo is this photo of the words "This is not Palermo" scrawled on the wall of the new Puma store...

Open Record
REF.0171AUGUST 2007

Casa Desiderio on 15 de Noviembre de 1889

Soon

Few people venture along the side streets behind Constitución station but there are some pleasant surprises (and I'm not talking about the transvestite...

Open Record
REF.0172AUGUST 2007

Changing Corners in San Telmo

Over the last month as I've been walking down Defensa in San Telmo I've felt that something was different, something was missing, but I couldn't quite figure...

Open Record
REF.0173JULY 2007

Adding some color to the city's walls

Soon

Over the past week I've noticed some colorful figures sprouting up on the walls of San Telmo and Barracas. Here's a couple of Web sites relating to the...

Open Record
REF.0174JULY 2007

A Yankee Engineer in Argentina

Soon

A hundred years ago one of the most prominent civil engineers in the U.S. was Elmer Corthell . At the beginning of the last century he journeyed to Buenos...

Open Record
REF.0175JULY 2007

Those Feminine Anarchists...

When I think of late 19th century anarchists I tend to imagine some slovenly dressed, ratty haired, vaguely Russian looking dude. But there were some women...

Open Record
REF.0176JULY 2007

How to speak with the dead?

"What is the use of writing poetry during a period of unrestrained fascism?" Over this past month I've been reading and re-reading an essay by the poet...

Open Record
REF.0177JULY 2007

A Borges Inspired Codex

While browsing around the Web today I came across this posting about the Codex Seraphianus , a possibly Borges inspired encyclopedia of a foreign world...

Open Record
REF.0178JULY 2007

Snow

Soon

Strange, I look out the window and there's snow....very, very little...in Tennessee we would barely call it a flurry but here in Buenos Aires it's almost ......

Open Record
REF.0179JUNE 2007

Family, Kids, & Fun in Buenos Aires

Soon

This blog has been quiet for the last couple of weeks while my sister Karen and my 16 year-old twin nieces visited Buenos Aires. Here's a photo of Kaitlyn and...

Open Record
REF.0180JUNE 2007

Hmmm, great cookies!

Soon

My sister and her daughters are in town visiting for a while. Yesterday they were wandering along Florida street and brought some cookies back to the...

Open Record
REF.0181JUNE 2007

William Henry Hudson

Soon

A new blog about William Henry Hudson points to a nice article in The Christian Science Monitor: William Henry Hudson, "A Revival of Argentina's Thoreau" ....

Open Record
REF.0182JUNE 2007

Puerto Ricans in Winter

Soon

A good friend of mine from college, David Román, is currently visiting Argentina. David is an environmental lawyer who teaches at the University of Puerto...

Open Record
REF.0183MAY 2007

An account of cholera in Buenos Aires

Soon

The delightfully well-written and stimulating blog Cocktail Party Physics provides a history lesson about cholera epidemics and, along the way, highlights the...

Open Record
REF.0184MAY 2007

Affordable Web Hosting with Site5

Soon

Okay, this has nothing to do with Buenos Aires...... I'm occasionally asked about good, cheap, affordable, low-cost hosting for Web sites. There are a lot of...

Open Record
REF.0185MAY 2007

What's in Gustavo's pocket?

Here's a wonderful photo blog that I wished I had discovered sooner, when it was still active. Gustavo Romano is an artist in Buenos Aires who photographed the...

Open Record
REF.0186MAY 2007

Art Galleries in San Telmo

Soon

Every time I look around there seems to be more and more art galleries in San Telmo, which simply adds to the overall number of art galleries in Buenos Aires....

Open Record
REF.0187MAY 2007

On Entre Rios

Soon

On one of my walks last week up Av de Mayo I decided at Congreso to turn left onto Entre Rios rather than my usual pattern of taking Callao into Barrio Norte....

Open Record
REF.0188MAY 2007

The City that Fades Away

Soon

I'm starting an irregular series of posts, The City that Fades Away , about the old, abandoned, crumbling buildings around Buenos Aires. I find these buildings...

Open Record
REF.0189MAY 2007

A bit of the Middle East in La Boca

Soon

Robert, just returned from the other side of the world, was over for dinner last night talking about how Tangier is the next Buenos Aires . Sounds fascinating!...

Open Record
REF.0190MAY 2007

Things you see only on a Sunday

Soon

Usually when I walk down Av Regimiento de Patricios, the boundary between Barracas and La Boca, it's during the week when all the stores are open. A Sunday...

Open Record
REF.0191MAY 2007

Children of Disappeared Create Archive of Identity

Soon

The North American Congress on Latin America (NACLA) has published a really good article on its site about a very worthy initiative: Children of Disappeared...

Open Record
REF.0192MAY 2007

Flat Hannah Visits Buenos Aires

Soon

Ken is a good friend of mine from grad school whose 7 year-old daughter Hannah is participating in the Flat Stanley project . Hannah sent her flat friend,...

Open Record
REF.0193APRIL 2007

Madres de Plaza de Mayo: Early Days

As I mentioned yesterday, 30 April marks the 30th year of the Madres de Plaza de Mayo. Until seeing Clarín this morning I didn't realize that one of the...

Open Record
REF.0194APRIL 2007

30 years of the Madres de Plaza de Mayo

Soon

Last week while walking down Av de Mayo I saw a couple of guys putting up these posters about tomorrow's (30 April) celebration of the 30th anniversary of the...

Open Record
REF.0195APRIL 2007

El Imperio de la Pizza

Soon

Last night we were over at the home of Carlos, a professor of graphic design at UBA, who lives in a nice casa chorizo in the barrio of Agronomía. After an...

Open Record
REF.0196APRIL 2007

Son of an Irishman in Buenos Aires

I've not checked into the Irish Migration Studies in Latin American site in quite a while, but thanks to a link on Archivalia I see that there is some...

Open Record
REF.0197APRIL 2007

Things tourists don't do in Buenos Aires

Soon

I came across a posting about riding the bus as one of the things that tourists don't do in Buenos Aires. I suspect that's true for the most part. I highly...

Open Record
REF.0198APRIL 2007

Literature is hip!

Soon

The annual Buenos Aires book fair opens its doors to the public today and runs through May 7. It's an excellent showcase for Argentine writings though not as...

Open Record
REF.0199APRIL 2007

Dawn in Parque Lezama

Soon

I've not been sleeping much at night lately. Last night I went to bed after 3 a.m., read for a long time in bed, then woke up just a little after 6 a.m. ......

Open Record
REF.0200APRIL 2007

A Weekday Morning in San Telmo

Soon

I'm writing this very early on a Sunday morning and in a few hours the tourists will be descending on San Telmo for the weekly "antiques" fair. I actually...

Open Record
REF.0201APRIL 2007

The Disappeared from Av Chile

Soon

Every time I wander along Av Chile I intend to take a photo of these three plaques in the sidewalk that commemorate three people abducted more than thirty...

Open Record
REF.0202APRIL 2007

Morning, early autumn, Barracas

Soon

Open Record
REF.0203APRIL 2007

Early morning Barracas

Soon

Just a window scene from an early morning walk around Barracas....

Open Record
REF.0204APRIL 2007

"Business with the State"

Soon

Continuing with our look at the political posters for the upcoming city elections .... This has to be one of the oddest political posters around town. At...

Open Record
REF.0205APRIL 2007

Real Estate Boom in San Telmo

Soon

From all the signs hanging on the outside of buildings, this must be the time to sell in San Telmo. (I count 9 for sale signs in this photo). I just wish that...

Open Record
REF.0206APRIL 2007

Minimum salary of 2,400 pesos

Soon

Everybody is grumbling about inflation in Buenos Aires these days.....painted on the corner of Brasil and Piedras is this demand for minimum salaries of 2,400...

Open Record
REF.0207APRIL 2007

Imagine a clean Buenos Aires

Soon

It's political season again here in Buenos Aires with the city's elections just a couple months away. That means posters are popping up all over the city....

Open Record
REF.0208MARCH 2007

The Best Contemporary Novels in Spanish

It's easy to identify the classic writers in any language but learning about the respected contemporary writers is much more difficult. The SPLALit blog has...

Open Record
REF.0209MARCH 2007

Bye Bye BBC, Chau CNN

Soon

As being discussed extensively on the BANEWCOMERS list, I checked my cable and found that the BBC and CNN channels are no longer available. Evidently, the...

Open Record
REF.0210MARCH 2007

Searching for Galeano in the bookstores of Buenos Aires

Soon

It has been a while since my last post but it's time to get back to posting more frequently. A few posts back I talked about a series of remarkable books by...

Open Record
REF.0211MARCH 2007

Passenger List of Italian Immigrants in 1961

Soon

Continuing my ongoing theme of Italian immigration to Argentina I've come across a posting at the Olive Tree Genealogy blog about an individual who has posted...

Open Record
REF.0212MARCH 2007

Adventure tourism on the 39

Soon

The other day on her blog Diva pointed out that you can do a cheap tour of Buenos Aires on the #24 bus. I take that bus often and it does have a lot of...

Open Record
REF.0213FEBRUARY 2007

Galeano on the Tenements of Buenos Aires (1890)

Soon

In another post I have to describe my long, almost futile, search among Buenos Aires bookstores for Eduardo Galeano's remarkable, three volume Memoria del...

Open Record
REF.0214FEBRUARY 2007

Jazz and Misery in Monserrat

Soon

You spend an early, warm summer evening relaxing to live music before a stage positioned in the center of Plaza de Mayo. A woman waits near the fountain for...

Open Record
REF.0215JANUARY 2007

Filming in San Telmo

Soon

Seems like more and more film crews are popping up in San Telmo. Whether they're for commercials or movies, I don't know. Coming back from Walrus Books late...

Open Record
REF.0216JANUARY 2007

On the Bus in Buenos Aires

Soon

This post inaugurates a new category - On the bus - an occasional series of anecdotes from travels on the city buses. Country Music Growing up in a small town...

Open Record
REF.0217JANUARY 2007

Girondo, 40 years after

January 24th marks 40 years since the death of the Argentine poet Oliverio Girondo. As a leader of the avant garde in 1920s Buenos Aires, Girondo wrote a...

Open Record
REF.0218JANUARY 2007

Argentine Literature, 1916 - 1930

One of my favorite historical topics is the intellectual and cultural history of the early twentieth century. Recently I've been reading a book titled Yrigoyen...

Open Record
REF.0219JANUARY 2007

Comet McNaught

Soon

If you're not seen Comet McNaught, then you've missed a spectacular sight. I took a couple of photos Sunday night from the roof of our building but the photos...

Open Record
REF.0220JANUARY 2007

The Battle of Caseros

Soon

Lately I've blogged about my street, Av Caseros, so I figured it's a good time to talk about the place behind the name. Caseros, in addition to being a street...

Open Record
REF.0221JANUARY 2007

Studios9: Out with the old, in with the new

Soon

Changes are underway at local TV station canal 9 after Mexican media mogul Angel Gonzalez (who now lives in Miami) brought 80% of the TV station. I'm not sure...

Open Record
REF.0222JANUARY 2007

Still searching for Julio Lopez

Soon

Thursday marked four months from the disappearance of Jorge Julio Lopez , an elderly witness who has been missing since testifying in the trial against a...

Open Record
REF.0223JANUARY 2007

More apartments on Caseros

Soon

In my last post I mentioned that I would say more about this block of apartment buildings on the 400 block of Av Caseros. I adore this set of buildings,...

Open Record
REF.0224JANUARY 2007

The buildings on Caseros

Soon

A message from a good friend of mine from college who is now an architect prompts me to write about the buildings on the street where I live in Buenos Aires....

Open Record
REF.0225JANUARY 2007

No more shoes

Soon

On the ground floor of the building where I formerly lived, there was a shoe store that had been in business since 1940. Everyone who worked inside was quite...

Open Record
REF.0226DECEMBER 2006

Cromagnon, 2 years

Soon

Last night marked the second anniversary of the fire at a concert in the República Cromagnon nightclub that killed 194 people. Taped to the barricade in front...

Open Record
REF.0227DECEMBER 2006

Walking along Brasil

Soon

Thirty of December, the next to last day of the year. Friday brought the hottest day of the season so far. Summer has arrived in Buenos Aires and the city...

Open Record
REF.0228DECEMBER 2006

Reading for Argentines

Soon

A recent issue of Ñ had the usual end-of-year review of books published in 2006 with a list of recommended readings. Here's the list of foreign books that Ñ...

Open Record
REF.0229DECEMBER 2006

Into the 9rules

Last week I received news that this blog has been accepted into the 9rules network of weblogs. I'm very excited about that and consider it a big honor. I've...

Open Record
REF.0230DECEMBER 2006

Who is Stella Maris?

Soon

How did I not know this? While wandering around the coast of Argentina I saw several buildings with the name Stella Maris . Earlier in the year in Miramar I...

Open Record
REF.0231DECEMBER 2006

Shopping but not buying?

Soon

I was at Abasto yesterday and the mall was packed with people, which isn't surprising since it's just before Christmas. But then I noticed that very few people...

Open Record
REF.0232DECEMBER 2006

El Pancho Dotto y La Coca Sarli

Soon

Saw this drawing on the side of an abandoned building on the Argentine coast. I'm told that it's rather funny to anyone familiar with Argentine pop culture....

Open Record
REF.0233DECEMBER 2006

Back from the coast

Soon

Just returned from a week on the Argentine coast. Stayed in a small village called Dunamar, which is on the other side of Tres Arroyos, about 8 hours by bus...

Open Record
REF.0234DECEMBER 2006

Off to the coast

Heading down to the Atlantic coast of Argentina for a few days of relaxation. Taking along some good books, the iPod, and looking forward to being away from...

Open Record
REF.0235DECEMBER 2006

Factory Windows

Soon

For some reason I was fascinated with this set of windows from an old, abandoned factory in Barracas.

Open Record
REF.0236DECEMBER 2006

Barracas, not just factories

Soon

Barracas isn't just a bunch of old factories . There are also some very nice houses there, such as this place on a cobblestone street. Of course, I guess some...

Open Record
REF.0237DECEMBER 2006

Old Factories in Barracas

Soon

We went for an early morning walk around Barracas on Sunday, which is a great time to see the old factory buildings in that part of the city. Just around the...

Open Record
REF.0238DECEMBER 2006

Maria Kodama, the widow of Borges

Marí­a Kodama is a well-known figure among porteños but those not familiar with the life of Jorge Luis Borges, who died in 1986 at the age of 86, may be...

Open Record
REF.0239DECEMBER 2006

The Temple in Parque Lezama

Soon

Towards the back of Parque Lezama, just before the park slopes down towards La Boca, is a replica of a Greek temple that always has intrigued me. Whenever I...

Open Record
REF.0240NOVEMBER 2006

The Slave Route in Argentina

Soon

As a follow-up to last week's post about the early 19th-century associations of Afro-Argentines in Buenos Aires, I want to mention a digitizing project of the...

Open Record
REF.0241NOVEMBER 2006

The African Nations of Buenos Aires

Soon

Augunga, Kisama, Maravi, Monyolo, Mina Nagó, Sabalu ... these were some of the names of the more than fifty African "nations" that existed in Buenos Aires...

Open Record
REF.0242NOVEMBER 2006

A house on Pavón

Soon

Here's an odd house that I encountered while wandering the streets one Saturday. I've seen a few other houses in Buenos Aires of this same style but was...

Open Record
REF.0243NOVEMBER 2006

2007 Buenos Aires book fair & book production in Argentina

Soon

I noticed that the 2007 edition of the Buenos Aires book fair already has its Web site up: Feria Internacional del Libro de Buenos Aires . It will run from...

Open Record
REF.0244NOVEMBER 2006

Arrival of the Italian Singers (A history of opera in Buenos Aires, part II)

Soon

Continues part I .... Early 1800s a family of singers - husband, wife, brother-in-law - tour the north of Italy, stopping in Piacenza and Reggio Emilia....

Open Record
REF.0245NOVEMBER 2006

terrorist, assassin, avenger

Soon

A fourteen-year-old Yiddish-speaking boy, born in a shtetl outside of Kiev, forced to work since the age of ten, is shot during the 1905 Russian revolution....

Open Record
REF.0246NOVEMBER 2006

The house of Girondo

Soon

For most who pass along calle Suipacha, the plain, unassuming house next to Palacio Noel goes unnoticed. Thousands of houses and apartments in Buenos Aires...

Open Record
REF.0247NOVEMBER 2006

Museo de Arte Hispanoamericano

Soon

One of my favorite museums in Buenos Aires is the Museo de Arte Hispanoamericano Isaac Fernández Blanco. (That's a long name!) It's located at Suipacha 1422...

Open Record
REF.0248NOVEMBER 2006

More Jacarandas

Soon

Robert's posting about Buenos Aires in bloom inspired me to walk over to Parque Lezama and take a look at the jacaranda trees which are so pretty this time of...

Open Record
REF.0249NOVEMBER 2006

An Argentine Bookseller in Rome

Soon

Last week I mentioned that the best illustrated version of Charles Darwin's Voyage of the Beagle was a 1942 edition published in Buenos Aires. The librarian...

Open Record
REF.0250OCTOBER 2006

Stumbling across the Irish

Soon

When I started working with the Cuban Heritage Collection at the University of Miami library I was surprised to learn about the Irish who had settled in Cuba....

Open Record
REF.0251OCTOBER 2006

Through Five Republics on Horseback

Soon

G.W. Ray was a 19th century North American missionary but he is remembered more for being a long rider, someone who traveled more than 1,000 miles on horseback...

Open Record
REF.0252OCTOBER 2006

No more brass

Soon

I was walking down the stairs of the apartment building the other day when one of the neighbors sighed and said that someone stole the brass handle to the...

Open Record
REF.0253OCTOBER 2006

Exploring Argentina with Charles Darwin

Soon

Interested in South America and have a scientific bent? Then lose yourself for weeks among the complete work of Charles Darwin , now available online. It's...

Open Record
REF.0254OCTOBER 2006

The courtyard of glass

Soon

One of the mysteries that I love about Buenos Aires is never knowing what is behind a building's facade. Earlier I mentioned the enchanting bookstores on...

Open Record
REF.0255OCTOBER 2006

Windows of the Booksellers

Soon

There's something about bookstores that attract me, perhaps the adventure of never knowing what waits inside. Buenos Aires is full of bookstores and, downtown,...

Open Record
REF.0256OCTOBER 2006

An Index to 30 Days with Borges

Soon

A listing of the 30 Days with Borges series. Also, these and additional postings about Borges can be found under the Borges category. day 1: Introduction day...

Open Record
REF.0257OCTOBER 2006

Hearts in Retiro

Soon

There are a lot of hearts on display in Retiro, around Plaza San Martín and Palacio Paz. Like the Cow Parade and other similar displays the hearts are for a...

Open Record
REF.0258OCTOBER 2006

Figari in Buenos Aires

Soon

The other day walking down calle Marcelo T. de Alvear I saw a plaque on a building that I've never noticed before. The sign said that Uruguayan artist Pedro...

Open Record
REF.0259OCTOBER 2006

The Closing of Teatro Colón (A History of Opera in Buenos Aires, part 1)

Soon

Update: May 25, 2010 - Teatro Colón is now re-opened after a 3 year renovation. . At the end of the month, Buenos Aires great opera house Teatro Colón will be...

Open Record
REF.0260OCTOBER 2006

Where is Lopez?

Soon

Again on Wednesday evening several human rights groups led a march down Avenida de Mayo from Congreso to Plaza de Mayo to protest the disappearance of Jorge...

Open Record
REF.0261OCTOBER 2006

Perón Mania

Soon

It's not everyday that the body of a famous historical figure rides through the streets. So, I took a break yesterday and walked over to Paseo Colón for the...

Open Record
REF.0262OCTOBER 2006

Saving African Culture

Soon

One of the exciting aspects about living in a city such as Buenos Aires is encountering the unexpected. Walking home at night along Defensa through San Telmo...

Open Record
REF.0263OCTOBER 2006

Little time for blogging these days...

Soon

One of the things I don't like about working more these days is that it leaves little time for blogging or even reading the almost 400 blogs that I have in my...

Open Record
REF.0264SEPTEMBER 2006

Walking the streets

Soon

18 months have gone by since I moved to Buenos Aires. It's such a short time, particularly compared to those who have lived here for years or even their entire...

Open Record
REF.0265SEPTEMBER 2006

The Puerto Madero Real Estate boom

Soon

In a comment to my last posting Robert mentioned the high rise towers being developed in Puerto Madero. For those of you who haven't been down to Puerto Madero...

Open Record
REF.0266SEPTEMBER 2006

Overlooking Puerto Madero

Soon

My thoughts on Puerto Madero are know to regular readers of this site. Lately I've been doing a lot of work, spending most of my days, in one of those office...

Open Record
REF.0267SEPTEMBER 2006

Night of the Pencils, 1976 - 2006

Saturday, 16 September, is the 30th anniversay of La Noche de los Lápiches (The Night of the Pencils), another sad but notable event from the most recent...

Open Record
REF.0268SEPTEMBER 2006

Parque Ameghino

Soon

Across Av Caseros from the old prison is a very nice park, Parque Ameghino. I'm very fond of the parks and plazas scattered through Buenos Aires, so I thought...

Open Record
REF.0269SEPTEMBER 2006

The Old Prison on Caseros

Soon

Continuing my walk along Av Caseros beyond the hospital zone I saw on the next block an old building with a turret. At first I couldn't imagine it's purpose,...

Open Record
REF.0270SEPTEMBER 2006

Walking the Southside

Soon

Saturday morning I wanted to explore an area of Buenos Aires that I've not seen on foot, an area that I've only passed through on the bus or the backseat of a...

Open Record
REF.0271SEPTEMBER 2006

Moved to a new apartment!

Soon

I've been away from the blog for a good part of this last month. The first thing that consumed my time was a big move to another apartment. Then just after we...

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REF.0272AUGUST 2006

Shopping for shoes in Buenos Aires

Soon

I'm blogging about shoes? Yep, looks like I am. Ceci came back from a day of shopping in Once. In the '90s she had a clothing store in that neighborhood, so...

Open Record
REF.0273AUGUST 2006

30 years since her disappearance

Soon

Every few days I see a story on the news or a sign on the streets commemorating the thirtieth anniversary of somone who was disappeared , such as this poster:...

Open Record
REF.0274AUGUST 2006

Justice, decades late

Soon

Not everyone reads the paper or watches the news on TV. But everyone sees the posters on the street. On Friday posters were pasted to the city's walls...

Open Record
REF.0275JULY 2006

Better safe than sorry

Soon

Cecilia and I had a late night out Saturday visiting with friends. When we came back to the apartment at 3am, the door to the apartment was pushed open. (The...

Open Record
REF.0276JULY 2006

Cosmos

Soon

A while back I had I heard a rumor that Cosmos, the independent cinema on Av Corrientes, was about to close. Pasa en Buenos Aires , an interesting, new blog...

Open Record
REF.0277JULY 2006

Pynchon in Clarín

Soon

Friday's Clarín ran an article on Thomas Pynchon as preparation for Pynchon's new book coming out this December. The Clarín article continues to perpetuate the...

Open Record
REF.0278JULY 2006

New Media Musings

Soon

One of the blogs that I try to read every week is New Media Musings: Charting the rise of open, democratic, grassroots media . The author of that blog, J.D....

Open Record
REF.0279JULY 2006

Parque Lezama

Soon

Just a few blocks down the street from me is Parque Lezama. During the week I often wander down there for a stroll or to sit on a bench under the shade and...

Open Record
REF.0280JULY 2006

Google Earth & Buenos Aires

Soon

Google Earth is a fun way to waste time or to explore the world. It's fun to do a flyover of your neighborhood and spot your house and all sorts of things. I...

Open Record
REF.0281JULY 2006

Learning that Rioplatense dialect

Laura has a good posting about learning Spanish and the dialect used around Buenos Aires. It reminded me about a project at the University of Iowa, Phonetics:...

Open Record
REF.0282JULY 2006

A friend, Los Piños & "Foreign" Real Estate Investors

One of my former colleagues from the University of Miami was in town this week. Schlomit is from Argentina but she has lived abroad for many years, first in...

Open Record
REF.0283JULY 2006

Martin Amis from the coast of Uruguay

Soon

I generally find little to read in the English-language Buenos Aires Herald but occasionally the Herald surprises me. In the Sunday edition Herald editor...

Open Record
REF.0284JULY 2006

Puig on Conversational Reading

Soon

Okay, the title of this post is a little misleading, sorry....literary blog Conversational Reading recommends Manuel Puig's Eternal Curse on the Reader of...

Open Record
REF.0285JULY 2006

Cheers for Italia from the heart patients...and for a great doctor

I saw most of the Italy-Germany game at home but had to skip the overtime to meet Ceci at the cardiac institute where her father had a procedure on Tuesday....

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REF.0286JULY 2006

Festa Literária Internacional de Parati

Soon

Someday we'll make it up to Brazil to attend the Festa Literária Internacional de Parati , which surely must be one of the world's great literary festivals....

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REF.0287JULY 2006

A quiet weekend, but miserable for some football fans

Soon

Big losses in the World Cup this weekend....not sure whom I'm cheering for now, Italy, perhaps Portugal. Yesterday, just before the Argentina-Germany game I...

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REF.0288JUNE 2006

David Byrne on Buenos Aires & Argentina

Soon

Singer David Byrne has been hanging out in Buenos Aires lately with the band La Portuaria. On his blog Bynre writes about a bike ride around Palermo , making a...

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REF.0289JUNE 2006

The Pynchon Borges Remix

Soon

It has been a long time since reading Gravity's Rainbow and I wasn't thinking about Borges at the time. But literary blogger Maud Newton points to an article...

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REF.0290JUNE 2006

Borges on San Telmo & the southern barrios

Soon

It's the weekend so it's time for the tourists to descend upon San Telmo for the antique fair. San Telmo is actually much nicer during the week when it is not...

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REF.0291JUNE 2006

Bar Británico is closed

Soon

It's a sad day in my barrio. Four blocks from my apartment is, or was, one of my favorite, old spots in the city, Bar Británico. Located in San Telmo at the...

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REF.0292JUNE 2006

The Widows of Thursdays

Soon

Ceci just finished reading the book Las viudas de los jueves by Claudia Piñeiro and highly recommends it. It's only available in Spanish and can be widely...

Open Record
REF.0293JUNE 2006

30 Days with Borges: Day 30, "El Sur"

This is the last day of my "30 days with Borges" series. It has been fun being absorbed into the world of Borges and writing these posts. (Sorry that some have...

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REF.0294JUNE 2006

30 Days with Borges: Day 29, "Las calles"

Soon

I don't remember reading the poetry of Borges until after I started visiting Buenos Aires. A few years ago I read one of his earliest poems Las calles , which...

Open Record
REF.0295JUNE 2006

30 Days with Borges: Day 28, "Unknown Street"

Soon

Calle desconocida is an early poem by Borges that captures a particular feeling about wandering the streets of Buenos Aires. Some selected lines: In that hour...

Open Record
REF.0296JUNE 2006

30 Days with Borges: Day 27, El Aleph

Years ago when I first started reading Borges I remember being fascinated with all the streets of Buenos Aires that he mentions in his stories. At the time I...

Open Record
REF.0297JUNE 2006

Argentina scores & church bells ring

Soon

During the big football games I'm accustom to hearing cheers from the streets whenever there is a goal. But when Argentina scored its first goal this morning...

Open Record
REF.0298JUNE 2006

Piquetero Day Camp

Soon

Here I was sitting at the computer in my San Telmo apartment when I hear a helicopter flying around outside. That's rather unusual for this area so I stepped...

Open Record
REF.0299JUNE 2006

30 Days with Borges: Day 26, El Zahir

At first, "El Zahir" seems like another Borges story about Buenos Aires. There are a lot of specific locations mentioned. The Zahir is a coin that the narrator...

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REF.0300JUNE 2006

30 Days with Borges: Day 25, Immortality

"Every one of us is, in some way, all the people who have died before us." Twenty years ago today Jorge Luis Borges died in Geneva at age 86. His longtime...

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REF.0301JUNE 2006

30 Days with Borges: Day 24, "Yesterdays"

Published in his 1981 poetry collection La Cifra , The Limit, when Borges was in his eighties. The actual title of this poem in the original Spanish version is...

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REF.0302JUNE 2006

Goal at the Coto

Soon

I just returned from my neighborhood Coto, the largest grocery store chain here in Argentina. The San Telmo store on Av Brasil has two TVs showing the Mundial,...

Open Record
REF.0303JUNE 2006

Mercedes Sosa sings Gracias a la vida

Soon

I've written before about the great voice of Mercedes Sosa. Now via youtube you can see and hear Mercedes Sosa performing the beautiful "Gracias a la vida" ....

Open Record
REF.0304JUNE 2006

30 Days with Borges: Day 23, "The Cyclical Night"

Yesterday I wrote about an essay by Borges titled Feeling in Death . A good companion piece to that essay is the poem The Cyclical Night , La noche ciclica....

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REF.0305JUNE 2006

30 Days with Borges: Day 22, "Feeling in Death"

Soon

"life is too impoverished not to be immortal." In 1928 Borges wrote a short essay titled Sentirse en muerte , Feeling in Death. He would come back to this...

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REF.0306JUNE 2006

Ready for the World Cup

Soon

In Argentina people have been buying new TV sets for months. I was in a bookstore today that had brought in a TV set just to watch Argentina play in the...

Open Record
REF.0307JUNE 2006

30 Days with Borges: Day 21, The Women of Borges

Soon

That could have been the subtitle of Williamson's biography of Borges. The Irish writer Colm Tóibín, who knows Buenos Aires very well, explains the situation:...

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REF.0308JUNE 2006

30 Days with Borges: Day 20,"The Garden of Forking Paths"

Soon

"Then I reflected that all things happen to oneself, and happen precisely, precisely now. Century follows century, yet events occur only in the present;...

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REF.0309JUNE 2006

30 Days with Borges: Day 19, "The Writing of the God"

Soon

"Little by little, a man comes to resemble the shape of his destiny; a man is, in the long run, his circumstances. Un hombre se confunde, gradualamente, con la...

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REF.0310JUNE 2006

30 Days with Borges: Day 18, A Dictionary of Borges

Soon

There are a lot of Web sites focused on Borges. For the student and researcher the best site is the Borges Center at the University of Iowa. The site is...

Open Record
REF.0311JUNE 2006

30 Days with Borges: Day 17, "Adrogué"

Adrogue Originally uploaded by sabor: limalimon . Just to the south of the city of Buenos Aires is the small town of Adrogué. Borges spent a lot of time in...

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REF.0312JUNE 2006

30 Days with Borges: Day 16, "Alexandria, A.D. 641"

Soon

Libraries, labyrinths, and the fact that anything is ever written are constant themes in the works of poems. Here are a few lines from the poem "Alexandria,...

Open Record
REF.0313JUNE 2006

30 Days with Borges: Day 15, 'an Argentine adrift on a sea of metaphysics'

Soon

Honestly, I keep wanting to find reasons to dislike Borges, to find evidence that he's overrated. But from a literary perspective, the more I read,...

Open Record
REF.0314JUNE 2006

Tango more popular than Buenos Aires

At least according to Google Trends , which is a new tool from the folks at Google that allows you to waste more time online, uh, "compare the world's interest...

Open Record
REF.0315JUNE 2006

30 Days with Borges: Day 14, The Circular Ruins

Soon

" He understood that the task of molding the incoherent and dizzying stuff that dreams are made of is the most difficult work a man can undertake ."...

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REF.0316JUNE 2006

Walrus Books

Soon

Update : Walrus books now has a Web site, go to www.walrus-books.com.ar Walrus Books , my favorite English language bookstore in Buenos Aires, has just opened...

Open Record
REF.0317JUNE 2006

30 Days with Borges: Day 13, Tlön, Uqbar, Orbis Tertius

Soon

"Tlön, Uqbar, Orbis Tertius" appears as the first story in the Ficciones collection by Borges. "Tlön, Uqbar, Orbis Tertius" is one of the most difficult...

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REF.0318MAY 2006

30 Days with Borges: Day 12, "Remorse"

Soon

"El remordimiento" [Remorse] is a poem from the 1976 collection "La moneda de hierro" [The Iron Coin], selected lines: I have committed the worst sin of all...

Open Record
REF.0319MAY 2006

30 Days with Borges: Day 11, "A Weary Man's Utopia"

Soon

"No one cares about facts anymore. They are mere points of departure for speculation and exercises in creativity. In school we are taught Doubt, and the Art of...

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REF.0320MAY 2006

30 Days with Borges: Day 10, Francesca & Paolo

Soon

"To fall in love is to create a religion with a fallible god." - Borges That gem of a line is from an obscure essay by Borges on one of the most striking...

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REF.0321MAY 2006

30 Days with Borges: Day 9, On Dante

Soon

"Imagine, in an Oriental library, a panel painted many centuries ago. It may be Arabic, and we are told that all the legends of The Thousand and One Nights are...

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REF.0322MAY 2006

30 Days with Borges: Day 8, Happiness

Soon

Lines from one of the later poems, La Dicha/Happiness: Los libros de la biblioteca no tienen letras. Cuando los abro surgen ... Loado sea el amor en el que no...

Open Record
REF.0323MAY 2006

To the Plaza...

On their way to the party yesterday in Plaza de Mayo a number of buses came by the apartment. The photo shows a line of about a dozen buses from Lomas de...

Open Record
REF.0324MAY 2006

30 Days with Borges: Day 7, I am a blind man

Soon

30 Days with Borges: Day 7, I am a blind man In the 1975 collection of poems LA ROSA PROFUNDA/AN UNENDING ROSE, there are two short poems by Borges, appearing...

Open Record
REF.0325MAY 2006

30 Days with Borges: Day 6, "A Page to Commemorate Colonel Suárez, Victor at Junín"

Soon

Today is Independence Day in Argentina. La Patria was very important to Borges, though he usually wasn't in agreement with the popular governments. More on...

Open Record
REF.0326MAY 2006

Popularity of Paul Auster in Buenos Aires

Paul Auster has long been one of my favorite writers. Evidently, he's also a favorite among readers in Buenos Aires. Last Sunday's PERFIL newspaper listed...

Open Record
REF.0327MAY 2006

30 Days with Borges: Day 5, Phases in the writings of Borges

Soon

One of the reasons that I'm writing this series is to introduce readers to Borges. I'm not writing for literary scholars; I have nothing new to add in that...

Open Record
REF.0328MAY 2006

30 Days with Borges: Day 4, Shakespeare's Memory, Everything and Nothing

Soon

Shakespeare's Memory was the last story published by Borges. It is often overlooked in reviews of the stories. Some cite that the story wasn't totally revised...

Open Record
REF.0329MAY 2006

30 Days with Borges: Day 3, a top 10 list

Soon

My favorite stories by Borges keep changing, but here's a list of my top 10 at this moment (in chronological order): Tlön, Uqbar, Orbis Tertius The Circular...

Open Record
REF.0330MAY 2006

30 Days with Borges: Day 2, Alberto Manguel, Reading and Learning from Borges

Soon

After Borges became totally blind, he would ask a variety of people to read to him. Starting in 1964, one of the people who had that pleasure was Alberto...

Open Record
REF.0331MAY 2006

30 Days with Borges: Day 1

Soon

June 14 will mark twenty years since the death of Jorge Luis Borges. In honor of his writings, I'm starting a new blog series called "30 Days with Borges" that...

Open Record
REF.0332MAY 2006

The Tango Singer

Soon

A book recently translated into English should be on interest to those who admire Buenos Aires: The Tango Singer is the latest novel by Tomás Eloy Martínez....

Open Record
REF.0333MAY 2006

Feria del Libro

Soon

We finally made it out to the Book Fair at La Rural. If you're in town and not yet been, then there are still a few more days. If you like books, then you...

Open Record
REF.0334APRIL 2006

Religious Advertising

Soon

Ever since I wrote the posting about Borges and Judas, then the one about Easter in Miramar, I'm seeing a lot of religious advertising on my blog ...I've not...

Open Record
REF.0335APRIL 2006

Street Crime in Buenos Aires

Soon

You are welcome to share your story if you are a tourist and victim of crime in Buenos Aires. Your experiences may help others avoid a problem. Feb 8, 2012...

Open Record
REF.0336APRIL 2006

Puerto Madero

Soon

I've never understood the fascination of porteños with Puerto Madero. Other than the bridge designed by Calatrava, I've never seen Puerto Madero as anything...

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REF.0337APRIL 2006

Easter Holiday in Miramar

Soon

We spent the long holiday weekend in the coastal resort town of Miramar, which is about 50 km west of Mar del Plata. We went with a group of friends, one of...

Open Record
REF.0338APRIL 2006

Borges & Judas

Soon

National Geographic is getting a lot of publicity for its research on the Gospel of Judas , a heresy just in time for Holy Week. It's actually quite...

Open Record
REF.0339APRIL 2006

Where am I?

Soon

I've been away from the blog for almost a month even though a lot happened this past month. There was the 30 year anniversary of the beginnings of the...

Open Record
REF.0340MARCH 2006

La Reina Kunti

Soon

Two years ago Ceci and I visited India. I presented a paper at the International Conference on Digital Libraries in Delhi and, afterwards, we spent two weeks...

Open Record
REF.0341MARCH 2006

Cromagnon: Waiting

Just past noon on Tuesday I wandered up to the center of the city to see what was happening around the city legislature building as the political trial of...

Open Record
REF.0342MARCH 2006

Cromagnon: Families and Politicians Wait

Late Monday afternoon I walked over to Plaza de Mayo where families of victims from the Cromagnon nightclub fire were starting a vigil. The families had placed...

Open Record
REF.0343FEBRUARY 2006

The Unemployed & Disabled in Buenos Aires

I also could have titled this post "Wake-up Drums". I've again been staying up very late writing (not blogging), often till 3 or 4 am, so I sleep late. Today I...

Open Record
REF.0344FEBRUARY 2006

82nd Child of the Disappeared Recovered by the Grandmothers of the Plaza de Mayo

Soon

In a recent post about the Mothers of the Plaza de Mayo, I mentioned the Grandmothers of the Plaza de Mayo who are focused on identifying the children who are...

Open Record
REF.0345FEBRUARY 2006

Mercedes in Palermo

Soon

Saturday night we went to the park in Palermo to see Mercedes Sosa perform. It was a free concert on a nice summer night, so there was a huge crowd. It wasn't...

Open Record
REF.0346FEBRUARY 2006

Yiddish Theater in Buenos Aires

Soon

The New York Public Library Digital Gallery has a small collection of 28 digitized images of posters advertising Yiddish theater performances in Buenos Aires...

Open Record
REF.0347FEBRUARY 2006

Are you from Buenos Aires?

Soon

Santiago in Brooklyn, who appears to be a transplanted porteño, has a funny posting titled Are you from Buenos Aires? with a list of You know you're a porteño...

Open Record
REF.0348FEBRUARY 2006

Casal de Catalunya

We forgot to make reservations for Valentine's dinner at a nice restaurant. The ones we called at the last minute were all booked, so we just decided to wander...

Open Record
REF.0349FEBRUARY 2006

Bar El Federal

Last week a friend of a friend was in town. He was staying in San Telmo, so we took him over to Bar El Federal for dinner. Located on the corner of Perú and...

Open Record
REF.0350FEBRUARY 2006

Elections & the Voting Process in Argentina

Soon

I ran across an interesting series of postings Michael Alvarez, a professor of political science at Cal Tech, who observed last October's election in...

Open Record
REF.0351FEBRUARY 2006

An Italian Builds a Home in Argentina

Last month Ceci and I walked over to the Constitución station and took a bus to Quilmes. After about 45 minutes on the late afternoon bus, so crowded with...

Open Record
REF.0352JANUARY 2006

Last March of the Madres de Plaza de Mayo

After 25 years and 1,500 Thursdays, the Madres de Plaza de Mayo made a historic last march in Plaza de Mayo. The Pirámide, around which the Madres march every...

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REF.0353JANUARY 2006

Tigre & 'About the Shape of the World'

On New Year's Day we went with our friends Ceci and Nestor to Tigre, the fascinating Paraná river delta that flows into the Rio de la Plata. Tigre itself is a...

Open Record
REF.0354JANUARY 2006

30 things to do when visiting Buenos Aires

I'm often asked by tourists for a list of things to do in Buenos Aires. So, here's my list of things tourists should try to do while visiting Buenos Aires....

Open Record
REF.0355JANUARY 2006

El Cuartito

The other night we went to El Cuartito, one of the classic pizzerias in Buenos Aires. There are pizzerias all over the city. This was my first visit to El...

Open Record
REF.0356JANUARY 2006

A Sidewalk Parrilla

Ever since moving to San Telmo I've noticed this man every weekday on calle Piedras. He brings the grill and has his own little restaurant on the sidewalk in...

Open Record
REF.0357DECEMBER 2005

The Dark Jungle of Quiroga

Soon

The short story dominates Argentine literature. These stories often are not based in realism but in a fantastical realm that examines the meaning of identity...

Open Record
REF.0358DECEMBER 2005

Manuel Puig

Soon

Over the past couple of days I’ve been casting about for a book to read and then realized that today, December 28, would have been Manuel Puig’s seventy-third...

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REF.0359DECEMBER 2005

Graham Greene - The Honorary Consul

Soon

The only questions of importance were those which a man asked himself. Another book that I have just finished is The Honorary Consul by Graham Greene. The...

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REF.0360DECEMBER 2005

Borges, Tigers, Woolf, & The Hours

Soon

Last week I went to KEL's, an English language bookstore in Barrio Norte, to pick up some books that I've been wanting to read. I highly recommend J.M....

Open Record
REF.0361NOVEMBER 2005

Early morning Buenos Aires

Lately I've been staying awake all night, writing and reading. Around 5 am I hear a rooster crowing, which is really rather odd living within walking distance...

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REF.0362NOVEMBER 2005

Templo de Santa Lucía

I have a fondness for old churches. One of the prettiest churches that I've recently seen in Buenos Aires is Templo de Santa Lucía in Barracas at Av Montes de...

Open Record
REF.0363NOVEMBER 2005

Confidencias

Across from a train viaduct in a southern barrio of Buenos Aires is the mural of a street scene with various additions from other artists: visible through the...

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REF.0364NOVEMBER 2005

Barracas

Soon

Saturday we explored Barracas, one of the southern barrios of Buenos Aires. It's one of those places that most visitors to Buenos Aires never see unless...

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REF.0365NOVEMBER 2005

Our building

Finally went out today and took this photo of our apartment building in San Telmo. That's our apartment at the top. The old doors and windows are wonderful....

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REF.0366NOVEMBER 2005

Colm Toibin

Soon

Having stayed up all night, I just finished reading Colm Toibin's The Master , a powerful novel about Henry James. What does that have to do with Buenos Aires?...

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REF.0367NOVEMBER 2005

Entrance to our building

This photo is of the entrance hallway to our building. This part is covered but when you go just beyond the door in the photo you entered into a part of the...

Open Record
REF.0368NOVEMBER 2005

Stop Bush

There's a lot of anti-Bush posters and graffiti going up all over town. Here's some of the posters I saw in San Telmo. It says "Mr. Bush, is this the democracy...

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REF.0369NOVEMBER 2005

Oppenheimer on Bush, Maradona & Castro

Soon

Andres Oppenheimer, columnist for the Miami Herald, and a native of Argentina, has an interesting perspective on the Maradona-led rally against the visit of...

Open Record
REF.0370NOVEMBER 2005

Our Office Window

Here's another photo from our apartment in San Telmo. This one is of the window in the office.

Open Record
REF.0371OCTOBER 2005

Antiquarian Book Fair

Soon

This weekend we went to the Antiquarian Book Fair in Buenos Aires at the Palais de Glace. Since I'm a librarian and Ceci's a book designer, we were both...

Open Record
REF.0372OCTOBER 2005

Maradona

Soon

I've been meaning to write a little about Diego Maradona ever since seeing this perceptive post about Diego Armando Maradona over at Altered Argentina . A...

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REF.0373OCTOBER 2005

Back to Baires

Soon

I've not actually been away from Baires but have been away from this blog for more than a month. Just been hanging out not doing much of anything...lately I've...

Open Record
REF.0374SEPTEMBER 2005

Don Quixote, Translators, & Edith Grossman

Soon

This post isn't about Buenos Aires specifically but anyone interested in Spanish literature knows that 2005 is the 400th anniversary of the publication of Don...

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REF.0375SEPTEMBER 2005

Américas magazine

Soon

Anyone interested in cultural and historical topics about Latin America should consider subscribing to the magazine published by the Organization of American...

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REF.0376SEPTEMBER 2005

Marginalizing literature

Soon

Times are getting more and more difficult for translating literature into other languages, particularly English. Basically, it's a business issue. English...

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REF.0377SEPTEMBER 2005

A Primer on Recent Argentine Economic History

Soon

I stumbled across this excellent essay by David Rock titled Racking Argentina that provides a solid background for understanding today's current economic...

Open Record
REF.0378SEPTEMBER 2005

The Quilmes Truck

Buenos Aires is simply full of fascinating buildings. Around the corner from our apartment is this old Quilmes beer distribution facility.

Open Record
REF.0379SEPTEMBER 2005

Reaction of Borges to the Overthrow of Perón

Soon

Borges had fostered an intense dislike for Perón for years. The latest biography of Borges ( Borges: A Life ) recounts the story that the writer told about his...

Open Record
REF.0380SEPTEMBER 2005

The Fall of Perón

September 19, 2005 is the 50th anniversary of the coup that ousted Juan Perón from power. Evidently, from these posters, some people just haven't gotten over...

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REF.0381SEPTEMBER 2005

La Pirámide de Mayo

I mentioned in my earlier posting about the Night of the Pencils march that la Pirámide de Mayo became a target for creative political expression on Friday...

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REF.0382SEPTEMBER 2005

Genocide, Bush, & the Cabildo

This appeared on the front wall of the Cabildo during Friday night's march. More graffiti that appeared on the Cabildo that night can be found on my flickr...

Open Record
REF.0383SEPTEMBER 2005

Night of the Pencils

On September 16, 1976 seven teenagers in La Plata were kidnapped by the government for protesting bus fares. Only one of the teens survived, the rest became...

Open Record
REF.0384SEPTEMBER 2005

Writers, Cafés, & Writing Spaces

Soon

Perhaps the characteristic that I enjoy most about Buenos Aires is its abundance of cafés. These are charming places where you can meet a friend or just sit...

Open Record
REF.0385SEPTEMBER 2005

Borges & Bioy Casares

Soon

It's well-known that Argentina has one of the highest literacy rates in Latin America. One admirable way that reading is encouraged is through low-cost...

Open Record
REF.0386SEPTEMBER 2005

Our San Telmo Apartment

On the first of this month we finally made our move to San Telmo on a Wednesday night. We are now living in this lovely old building (thanks to our friend...

Open Record
REF.0387SEPTEMBER 2005

The Argentine Pavilion of the 1889 Paris Expo

Clarín, one of the leading daily papers in Buenos Aires, is issuing a special supplement over the next several Sundays titled La Fotografía en la Historia...

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REF.0388SEPTEMBER 2005

Confrontation between Protesters & Police

This posting continues Piqueteros, the Argentine Government, & the Right to March into Plaza de Mayo . What should have been an anti-Bush rally in Plaza de...

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REF.0389SEPTEMBER 2005

Piqueteros, the Argentine Government, & the Right to March into Plaza de Mayo

Plaza de Mayo always has been a popular gathering spot for political assemblies in Buenos Aires. It's the historic plaza of the city: on one end of the Plaza...

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REF.0390AUGUST 2005

Victoria Ocampo's house in Palermo

Soon

On Friday we were walking through Palermo Chico and around the embassies when we came across Victoria Ocampo's house in Palermo. It's not as well known as...

Open Record
REF.0391AUGUST 2005

Writers of Buenos Aires: Online audio & video

Soon

Sunday's Clarín ran an article about the Audiovideoteca de Escritores de Buenos Aires , a project that is developing an online collection of audio and video...

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REF.0392AUGUST 2005

Early-twentieth-century intellectual magazines in Buenos Aires

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One of my favorite characteristics of Buenos Aires are the many kiosks selling newspapers and magazines. Unlike North America you cannot buy magazines in the...

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REF.0393AUGUST 2005

FUERZABRUTA

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Last Friday night we went with our friend Adriana to see FUERZABRUTA . We had been intending to go since the show started in May but just now got around to it....

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REF.0394AUGUST 2005

Learning Chinese

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An entry over at Going Global about students in the U.S. learning Chinese as a second language reminded me of an article in the Miami Herald that I read last...

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REF.0395JULY 2005

Jewish Gauchos of the Pampas

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A book I've been reading lately is The Jewish Gauchos of the Pampas [Los Gauchos Judíos] by Alberto Gerchunoff. Through a series of 26 interlocking stories it...

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REF.0396JULY 2005

Cortázar's supernatural Bestiary

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Writer Jeremy Sheldon, author of the new novel The Smiling Affair , was asked by the Guardian to prepare a list of his Top 10 Supernatural Books . In the list...

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REF.0397JULY 2005

Borges, Girondo, & Norah Lange

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One of the pleasures of living here in Buenos Aires is encountering novelists and poets that have been unknown to me. Almost each day I seem to "discover" an...

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REF.0398JULY 2005

Cromagnon: 194 lives, 194 days

I was walking around Av de Mayo this afternoon when I noticed that this poster had sprung up around the downtown area. It's a poignant reminder about the lack...

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REF.0399JULY 2005

The AMIA bombing, 11 years later

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The balcony of our 11th floor apartment overlooks the neighborhood of Once. The area is characterized as being predominantly Jewish and as the garment district...

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REF.0400JULY 2005

Translating Cortázar

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Julio Cortázar (1914-1984) is one of the towering figures of Argentine literature. Yet, Cortázar is hardly known in the English speaking world even among the...

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REF.0401JULY 2005

Jewish Immigration to Argentina

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With the largest Jewish population in Latin America Buenos Aires has 50 Orthodox synagogues, five Conservative, and one Reform . Eighty percent of Argentine...

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REF.0402JULY 2005

Immigrant barrios in 19th century Buenos Aires

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With the massive immigration to Argentina in the late 1800s, different ethnic groups tended to congregate in specific neighborhods. Here's a sample of...

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REF.0403JULY 2005

A young Jewish woman from Kansas comes to Buenos Aires

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This week AMIA , the Jewish Community Center is Buenos Aires, is commemorating the 11 year anniversary of the bombing of AMIA that killed 85 people. In memory...

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REF.0404JULY 2005

Buenos Aires & the 1871 Yellow Fever Epidemic

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The history of Yellow Fever in the 19th century is fascinating. The disease, whose cause and cure was unknown at the time, was feared throughout the Americas....

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REF.0405JULY 2005

The Irish in Argentina

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Somewhere, way back, I have some ancestors from Ireland. My last name of Barry is certainly very Irish. Imagine my surprise when I first saw the name Barry as...

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REF.0406JULY 2005

Directory of Jewish Cemeteries in Buenos Aires

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AMIA, the Jewish Community Center of Buenos Aires, has an online database of grave locations for the four Jewish cemeteries [ update : this link is updated and...

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REF.0407JULY 2005

"You look maahhhvelous"

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So, how did I not know until now that Fernando Lamas, that suave icon of bad TV acting in the 1970s was from Buenos Aires? Of course, Lamas, who died in 1982,...

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REF.0408JULY 2005

Feliz Cumpleaños, Mercedes Sosa!

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July 9 is not only Argentina's Independence Day but today is also the 70th birthday of singer Mercedes Sosa . Mercedes Sosa is one of the most well-known...

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REF.0409JULY 2005

Xul Solar

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Xul Solar (1887-1963) is one of the most significant artists of the 20th century, yet he is little known outside of his native Argentina. Repeatedly, I have...

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REF.0410JUNE 2005

Outsourcing in Latin America

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One topic that I've been following is the growth in outsourcing information technology services from the U.S. to Latin America. Here in Buenos Aires I am...

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REF.0411JUNE 2005

Buenos Aires now in Google Maps

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I've been waiting for the appearance of South America in Google Maps . The fun is no longer just limited to North America! As you can see in this satellite...

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REF.0412JUNE 2005

Feliz Cumpleaños, Ernesto Sabato!

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One of Argentina's greatest living writers, Ernesto Sabato, celebrates his 94th birthday today. ( I originally wrote this post in 2005. As Tom points out in...

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REF.0413JUNE 2005

Maurycy Minkowski, A Nearly Forgotten Artist

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Just a couple of blocks away, around the corner from our apartment is AMIA, the Jewish community center here in Buenos Aires. In an upcoming post, I'm going to...

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REF.0414JUNE 2005

Journey to Uruguay

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It has been almost three months since I moved to Buenos Aires and now it's time for my first visa run out of the country. This time I'm going to Uruguay. I've...

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REF.0415JUNE 2005

Ghost Train of the Cartoneros

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Here's a wonderful photographic essay, Buenos Aires: the Ghost Train of the Cartoneros . Cartoneros are a visible part of daily life in Buenos Aires....

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REF.0416JUNE 2005

An unflattering portrait of Buenos Aires from a US newspaper

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Last weekend an article appeared in Staunton News Leader about a family from Buenos Aires that had emigrated to Virginia in the U.S.; Staunton is a small town...

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REF.0417JUNE 2005

El Barrio Silicon

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One small but potentially lucrative growth industry in Argentina is technology outsourcing. Costs here are low and the workforce is very educated. As US and...

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REF.0418JUNE 2005

Sushi in Buenos Aires

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Tonight Ceci and I went back to our favorite sushi restaurant in Buenos Aires, Ichisou. We actually haven't been back to Ichisou in two years but that was just...

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REF.0419JUNE 2005

Lunfardo & slang in Buenos Aires

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One of the most colorful aspects of Spanish as it's practiced in Buenos Aires is the slang or lunfardo . Originating out of the working class immigrant...

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REF.0420JUNE 2005

Chino basico

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In English there's the expression, "It's Greek to me" in reference to something that the speaker has no way of comprehending. In Spanish, or at least the way...

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REF.0421JUNE 2005

Argentina Blogging

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In this weekend's Ñ there is an article about blogging in Argentina . ( Ñ is the cultural and literary weekend paper published by the Clarin news group). One...

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REF.0422JUNE 2005

Minimum wage increased in Argentina

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The minimum wage in Argentina is going up to $630 pesos/month (about US$217). The increase will impact almost a million workers.

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REF.0423JUNE 2005

Open Source Guy in Buenos Aires

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I was delighted to see Marc Laporte's blog of his new life in Buenos Aires. He's an open source web developer from Montreal. The open source software movement...

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REF.0424JUNE 2005

Read this quote!

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"Buenos Aires - she is an old, elegant woman wearing a Bohemian hat." That's a great quote from Robin Sparks' account of Buenos Aires .

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REF.0425JUNE 2005

Foggy morning in Buenos Aires

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Just went into the kitchen to get some chocolate milk and looked out the sliding glass door. It's a very foggy morning here in Buenos Aires. Normally I can see...

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REF.0426MAY 2005

Delivery, Take out, eating in, in Buenos Aires

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When we don't feel like going out to eat or cooking, we will have something delivered from the restaurant on the corner, Zoe's. It's an average restaurant,...

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REF.0427MAY 2005

teleSUR, the anti-CNN

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Watching the local news tonight, I saw a segment about a new television network launched by Hugo Chavez out of Cuba called teleSUR . It has been called the...

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REF.0428MAY 2005

El Sur

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My posting here has slowed down a little in the past couple of days as I start-up another blog El Sur, Travel in South America . That site will be mainly...

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REF.0429MAY 2005

Photos from May 20 teacher protest marches

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I have some photos of last week's protest marches over on my Flickr account at http://www.flickr.com/photos/jeffbarry/ . Take a look at social activism in...

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REF.0430MAY 2005

Las Cañas Restaurant

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Last night, Sunday, Ceci and I went out to eat dinner. We had finished off her 3 days of birthday celebrations on Saturday night with a party of friends,...

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REF.0431MAY 2005

Immigration in Argentina

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Looking around Buenos Aires it becomes obvious that not everyone here is of Spanish descent. That's not a new phenomenon, as Argentina has largely been a...

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REF.0432MAY 2005

Indian Food in Buenos Aires

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To celebrate Ceci's 32nd birthday, we went to one of the few (if not only) Indian restaurants in Buens Aires. Located at Córdoba 3547 Katmandu is a very good...

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REF.0433MAY 2005

Relocating and Living in Argentina

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Relocating and Living in Argentina is a good source of information for those considering the move Buenos Aires.

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REF.0434MAY 2005

25 May 1810

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Today's a national holiday, the celebration of 25 May 1810 in which the Spanish viceroyal Cisneros was disposed by the first Junta that would govern the land...

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REF.0435MAY 2005

University of Buenos Aires

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Over at the Thorn Tree a poster asked about neighborhoods around the University of Buenos Aires . I posted this reply: UBA has separate "campuses" all over the...

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REF.0436MAY 2005

In Search of the Mythical Afro-Argentine

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One of the mysteries of Buenos Aires is that one sees so few people of African descent. A native Porteño told me that there were no blacks in Argentina. And...

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REF.0437MAY 2005

Expat Argentina

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There's a really good blog about a newcomer's experiences in Argentina over at Expat Argentina . I've added it to my Bloglines.

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REF.0438MAY 2005

Buying Bargain Clothes in Buenos Aires

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Over on The Thorn Tree is a thread about one tourist's unsuccessful hunt for bargain clothing in BsAS. I posted a reply and wanted to elaborate here: As DF...

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REF.0439MAY 2005

The Ambulance that Almost Never Came

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Tonight´s 10,000 person march by university faculty and students came to a somber stop just three blocks from the Plaza de Mayo. I was walking next to the...

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REF.0440MAY 2005

University Students Take to the Streets

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Two blocks from our apartment is Plaza de Houssay, which is situated between the medical school and business school of the University of Buenos Aires. Tonight...

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REF.0441MAY 2005

Thousands of Teachers March in Strike

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I got up early today, 11am, because I knew that the teachers union - CTERA - was planning a large march to the Congreso at midday. Across Argentina, 95% of the...

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REF.0442MAY 2005

Judge Orders School Closed

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Following the student protests about the building conditions at the Escuela Normal Sarmiento, a city judge tonight ordered the school to be closed. The judge...

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REF.0443MAY 2005

The Day of Protests in Buenos Aires

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If the sun is shining in Buenos Aires, then there must be a strike. On this day of protests I went out for an afternoon walk to see what the proleteriat was up...

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REF.0444MAY 2005

Bank Strike in Argentina

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Employees of all the banks in Argentina went on strike today. With the exception of one small scuffle with the Police in front of the Casa Rosada, this was a...

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REF.0445MAY 2005

Student Uprising in Buenos Aires

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Okay, so maybe that is a little dramatic but the high school students here are definitely asserting their political influences on issues important to them....

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REF.0446MAY 2005

Psychoanalysis in Buenos Aires

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Over at the BANewcomers list has been a discussion about whether a lot of the locals in Buenos Aires go to psychologists, as is stated in one of the...

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REF.0447MAY 2005

Families fight with Police

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While the kids were protesting at the school (see previous post), a more violent skirmish was taking place a few blocks away near the Justice building as...

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REF.0448MAY 2005

"The School is Taken!"

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So proclaimed (in Spanish) the handwritten sign taped to the gates of the Escuela Normal Sarmiento on Av Callao. Starting Wednesday, students took over the...

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REF.0449MAY 2005

Murder at the Museum & Stolen Art

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In what could be the core of a P.D. James novel, two unrelated events this week are the focus of the art world in Buenos Aires. First, is the shocking double...

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REF.0450MAY 2005

Mamas, Tias, & Abuelas Seeking Employment

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As if to dramatize the economic conditions, more than 3,500 women - all between the ages of 40& 60 - lined up in Recoleta Tuesday to apply for 40 openings at a...

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REF.0451MAY 2005

BridgeBlogs

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In my ramblings through the Web today I came across the Global Voices Online site and its Monday World Blog Roundup. I really like what this group is...

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REF.0452MAY 2005

Meet the Parents

Soon

Saturday night, after taking in a movie at Gaumont, we were walking around the Congreso area. As we strolled down calle Sarmiento, we noticed a large line of...

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REF.0453MAY 2005

Nestor´s Citroen

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Last night we went out to dinner with our friends Ceci and Nestor, who picked us up in Nestor´s old Citroen. Cars from the French automaker are very common in...

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REF.0454MAY 2005

Arrival of the President of Angola

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I was going to the weekly march of the Madres de Plaza de Mayo when I got off the subte at the Catedral stop on Thursday. Walking across the street, I noticed...

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REF.0455APRIL 2005

Alive in 2005, in Buenos Aires

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A hundred years ago Buenos Aires was at its height. Argentina had one of the strongest economies in the world. Wealthy landowning families, profiting from...

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REF.0456APRIL 2005

In Salta, the Poor Teach the Poor

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There is no better way to understand the hardship facing Argentina than by examining the pay that people receive for a day´s work. In the northwestern town of...

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REF.0457MARCH 2005

Cheap eats & movie

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First-run movie tickets at the Cinemark in trendy Puerto Madero is $6.75 pesos, about $2.50 in US dollars. Taxi runs about $7 pesos for about a 4 miles trip....

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REF.0458MARCH 2005

Lack of Colonial Architecture

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Buenos Aires lacks the outstanding colonial architecture of some Latin American cities, such as Lima or San Juan. Despite its presence on the Atlantic coast,...

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REF.0459MARCH 2005

March is a month for moving

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March 22 (Miami International Airport) ”“ Tonight I´m leaving Miami, my home for the past five years, for my new home in Buenos Aires. Writing that seems...

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REF.0460FEBRUARY 2005

Topics

Soon

Among the topics to be discussed in this blog...literature - Borges, Ocampo, Bioy Casares, Eloy Martinez, Cartazar, Sabato, Girondo, Sur, Norah Lange...music -...

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