Buenos Aires Archive / 460 Records

The kind of trauma that one never really gets over. The air around the sanctuary was heavy with the weight of thousands of shoes, each representing a life cut short.

A barrio of cobblestone streets gracing the edges of the city´s oldest buildings. On Sundays, the flea market brings a chaotic energy that contrasts with the decaying grandeur.

Demonstrations form an integral part of the fabric that one encounters on a fairly regular basis in BsAs. Even a quiet tour of historical churches can become a front-row seat to political passion.

In seeking the perfect for Ceci's birthday I wandered the bookstores & art stores of Manhattan. On a gray Saturday afternoon last month I sought out Rizzoli...

Last night I carried my two year old daughter down the steps of the Primera Junta subway stop in the neighborhood of Caballito. Mila had never ridden a subway...

On Saturday I went on a photography tour that is a great way to experience Buenos Aires , and I strongly recommend that everyone place Fota Ruta high on a list...
My e-book guide to 4 perfect days in Buenos Aires is now free! Written in 2009 the guide is a bit out-of-date but you might still find it very interesting. I...
Sitting at my desk today I've been hearing the voices of tango singers floating up towards my 7th floor balcony. With hundreds of other apartments visible from...
Last Friday for the May 25 holiday we ventured out to San Telmo (how I miss living there) to dine at El Histórico . (I forgot to bring a camera.) We enjoyed...
To celebrate the long holiday weekend here in Argentina & the U.S. (as well as my return to blogging about Buenos Aires) the 4 Days in Buenos Aires app for...

A friend of mine says, "The most heroic task of a parent is getting their child to sleep each night." Ah, that's a challenge. Mila & I have our routine. It's...

The inactivity on this blog was largely due to my absence from Buenos Aires for 2010 & 2011. I spent that time down on the coast of Argentina in a very small...

Without a doubt, Recoleta Cemetery is the most enchanting spot in Buenos Aires. Even after dozens of visits I still discover a new aspect: a tomb gone...

My personal recommendations (a tiny guidebook , if you will) for enjoying 4 perfect days in Buenos Aires: also available as an app for iPhone . You also can...

One of the things that keeps me too busy to blog often here is my work with The International Literary Quarterly , also known as Interlitq . One of the...

Having returned earlier this month to Glasgow, the city of his birth, to attend the launch event for 40 Glasgow Voices , published recently in Issue 10 of The...
Merely checking to see how this picasa->lighbox plugin works , this Flickr embed....BTW, this photo was taken very early one morning back in 2005 in the...
Time to pause and read a bit of Borges on the 110th anniversary of his birth in Buenos Aires: August 24, 1899. If you're not sure where to start, here's my top...
I ventured inside a bookstore on Av Las Heras and was surprised to see on the front table an unexpected set of fiction works: a 3 volume collection of stories...

Long-time readers of this blog know that our Buenos Aires home was on the border of San Telmo and Barracas. But since last November we've been staying at a...
Our house in Mar del Sur is under renovation. We plan to move to the coast in December, right in time for the Argentine summer...yeah! That means I only have a...

Ceci & I launched a new phase of our Buenos Aires adventures today with the purchase of a house in Mar del Sud We're not totally abandoning the city life for a...

Casual conversations often lead to unexpected discoveries. The other day I walked over to Palermo to have coffee with Peter Robertson and talk about future...

Last night I took a taxi from Recoleta out to Liniers, a barrio on the southwestern edge of the capital district of Buenos Aires. I tend to think that I know...

I was recently contacted by the folks at Miniature Studios about their new Spanish language learning product Bueno, entonces . [Disclaimer: Miniature Studios...
For those travelers among you that use Kindle, this blog is now available via Kindle . I haven't used Kindle but my understanding is that blogs via Kindle can...
Just an update on some writing things involving some expats that have a home in Buenos Aires.... Peter Robertson & I have released the latest issue of The...

Mid-term elections are coming up quickly & if you live here then you can't escape the media blitz by all the politicians. Even today when I went to my RSS...
This afternoon Ceci & I met up with Robert to stake out a spot on Av Callao to watch the funeral procession of former President Raul Alfonsín . After the...

Not a very good quality photograph but shows a festive Plaza de Mayo for Christmas 1898.

Argentina is on the 2009 priority watch list of the International Intellectual Property Alliance . Sounds ominous sharing the list with China, Pakistan, and...

Till the end of the month (March 1, 2009) there's a little photo exhibition at Centro Cultural Recoleta that is worth viewing. Featured are photos of the city...

A companion to last week's photo .
A proposal before the Argentine congress aims to bring the remains of Jorge Luis Borges from his burial place in Geneva to Argentina where the writer would be...

Okay, yesterday's little rain shower wasn't a flood but I'm sure all of us in Buenos Aires enjoyed the cooler weather. Reminded me of this wonderful old photo,...
Ever since hearing that New Directions Publishing was releasing an English translation of César Aira's Los Fantasmas ( Ghosts ) in 2009, I've been searching...
In preparation for Argentina as the guest of honor country at the 2010 Frankfurt Book Fair, the government of Argentina is announcing a new program to...

A few days still remain to catch the Amigos del Arte exhibition at MALBA . (... till February 9.) Curators Patricia M. Artundo y Marcelo E. Pacheco have...

Visiting Buenos Aires & looking for what to do? This guide presents one way of experiencing Buenos Aires, the way I recommend to my own friends on their first...

I always will have great memories of Parque Lezama. I've spent many hours strolling around the park. Sure, on weekends it's rather dusty and crowded but...

A sketch of the nightlife on New Year's 1898 from Buenos Aires magazine. Happy New Year to everybody!

A 2009 Walking Buenos Ayres calendar is one of the projects we've been working on. It's easily shipped from the manufacturer to you in the U.S. or wherever...
Wandering the bookstores in Buenos Aires, looking for good fiction by an Argentine writer but you're already read enough of Borges, Bioy, & Cortazar? A local...
I was wakened from a dream the other morning....Ceci and I were visiting a small gathering spot, some type of bar or cafe that our friend Nestor had...
My short story, "Forever Unaware" , was recently published in Paradigm . Update (2014): the links are no longer active.
I enjoy reading travelogues about places all around the world, though there is a certain sameness to them all after a while. With Argentina's bicentennial...

For a couple of years I've been intending to take a photo of this house on Peru street, just around the corner from where I live. Just wished I had taken the...

While browsing around a bookstore in San Telmo today I found a volume of photographs that fits perfectly with my City that Fades Away series: Arquitecturas...

Borges felt that the calles , the streets, of Buenos Aires formed an integral part of his being, his soul. Traveling on these strands of cobblestone and...

This goes into the category of things you don't miss if you didn't ever know it was there . For some time during my early visits to Parque Lezama I never...

This falls into the you never know what you'll find on the streets of Buenos Aires category....a reel of magnetic tape, dated 1983 - 1984 , tossed out onto the...
Wow, a month has gone since I've last posted on this blog...a writing project has been keeping me away...it's hard to keep up with all my projects - writing on...

The block of Peru street between Av Caseros and Finochietto has a lot of appeal though parts are still in rather bad shape. Here's a wonderful old house that...
Yesterday's post on Walter Benjamin's The Arcades Project mentioned a surprise that came with the book. It's not that unusual to find odd things in used books...
For weeks I've been waiting for a shipment of books from the U.S. Finally, today, a notice arrived and that meant a trip down to Retiro and the international...
...this post continues yesterday's odd encounters in the bookstores along Florida street... Argentine writer César Aira never seems to struggle with the...
I had some time to kill this afternoon on Florida street so I wandered into a few bookstores. One of the most bizarre guidebooks to Argentina that caught my...
This afternoon at the café I read a book review which proceeded to tell me way more than I wanted to know about the book prior to reading it. I immediately...
I've spent the last few weeks working with fellow Buenos Aires resident Peter Robertson to produce the latest issue of The International Literary Quarterly . I...
There's a nice loft apartment for sale in my building on Av Caseros . It's a nice, quiet place to live. Priced at $160,000.

...at the computer. Actually, I've never been much to write at the keyboard (even though I'm an excellent typist). Anything thoughtful always meant pen to...

Perhaps my friends in Miami at the Cuban Heritage Collection would be disappointed in me....yesterday while I was reading in Bar Britanico a deaf man, who...

Live in the city long enough and you may cease to notice its core: a collective living and working environment for as many people as possible.
I stayed up till early morning watching the Argentine senate debate and subsequent vote on the agricultural retenciones . Since I generally stay awake till 3am...

Browsing around the stalls at the mercado de San Telmo reveals some enchanting relics buried amidst an exhausting range of junk. On Saturday we came away with...

I'm really trying to post more often, after being mostly absent from this blog last month. But today, I've not even gotten out of the house. So I decided to...

The other day I received in the mail a review copy of The Authentic Bars, Cafes, and Restaurants of Buenos Aires by Gabriela Kogan. There is a serious lack of...

This guy playing guitar on the 39 today was not too bad.

Macedonio Fernández was an enigmatic figure shadowing over the literary scene in Buenos Aires during the early 20th century. In a new essay published in The...

I've been anticipating the arrival of the cool weather that accompanies autumn and winter. We seemingly have skipped fall and landed right in the midst of a...
I don't like mixing politics with my blogs, though while prowling the Huffington Post (another thing I don't do too often) I came across this analysis of...

I don't have much time for blogging lately, but this can't go unmentioned....another sad episode for the City that Fades Away series. Before and a different...
Guess I'm still getting adjusted to the WordPress 2.5 admin interface (only fellow WordPress bloggers will understand)... I just accidentally deleted the last...

Opposite me in Britanico a man sits, tapping his fingers against the table while assorted persons wander in and out of the café selling pens, socks, jewelry,...

One of my librarian friends back in the U.S. sent me a link to a project by the University of Chicago library: Late 19th- and Early 20th-Century Latin American...

I find myself at Bar Britanico a lot lately and blogging about its occasional celebrity clientele or El Hipopotamo across the street . But I've realized from...
Another for the City that Fades Away series.... The basta de demoler blog chronicles the demolition of the historic architecture in Buenos Aires. Their posts...
Chad W. Post of the Three Percent blog , an excellent source of information on literature in translation, is in Buenos Aires for the annual book fair and a...
As someone with Irish ancestry (way, way back), I've written a bit before about Irish immigration to Argentina . A great resource for this topic is the...
Who are the legendary figures of Buenos Aires? Obviously, Eva Peron is the most known (along with hubby Juan). Among those who read, Borges is legendary. Among...

What do you write about when you don't know what to write? Or, when you're filled with thoughts, each competing for attention, seeking expression? I find...

I wish I could draw, but I can't. If I could draw, then I would spend a lot of time drawing the architecture of Buenos Aires. The best set of architecture...
I spend a lot of my time in Buenos Aires scratching marks on paper...some of it comes out like this .

Last month I posted a photo from the window of El Hipopótamo , looking across Defensa street towards Bar Britanico. So, now here's the opposite view: I've been...
About midday I headed over to my "office" (aka Bar Britanico) to edit a manuscript. At one point I start hearing a guy speaking in English at the table behind...

I'm about to head out of town for a week without Internet and computer, yeah! But before I leave I want to mention the first title in the Walking Buenos Aires...

These days I'm busy editing a book on architectural photography. To get away from the computer for a while I often take a manuscript to a cafe. Today it was El...

Here's a photo that I've been intending to put up for a long time. Actually, I see that I took this photo last April! I'm really behind on my blogging....

Maybe it's just me, but I find something quite beautiful about the cracked, old sidewalk tiles. Seen on Billinghurst .

While on last week's walk down Billinghurst I came across this bookstore located on the ground floor of an older building. Somehow, it seemed ironic that just...

Yesterday while walking down Tacuari just after a brief rain shower, I saw this photograph lying on the sidewalk. My first assumption was that someone had lost...
The architects of Buenos Aires have left some of the most vivid impressions on the surface of this city. Stunning facades and architectural details are among...

A walk down Billinghurst enables you to see the diversity of neighborhoods in Buenos Aires. The northern terminus of Billinghurst at Av del Libertador in...
I don't know if anyone offers a literary walking tour of Buenos Aires, but if you read Spanish then you can grab a copy of Al pie de la letra: guía literaria...
I've been working recently with part-time Buenos Aires resident Peter Robertson to help get Issue 2 of the International Literary Quarterly ready. There is...
Searching for that perfect book in English during your stay in Buenos Aires? The good folks over at Argentina's Travel brings you " Buenos Aires' Brilliant...
Football is one of the most vital aspects of life for most men in Argentina. But I must admit that football in Argentina is a topic in which I only know the...

There are many fun things to do in Buenos Aires and, on this Valentine's Day, here are some ways of falling in love with the city of Buenos Aires: Enjoy the...
Recoleta Cemetery is one of those places where you always learn something new and Robert's AfterLife site gives a fresh dose of those creepy yet beautiful...
Ituzaingo is a quiet, shady street just beyond the southern edge of San Telmo. Nothing suggest this street as the source for a social movement in 1907 that...
With the renovation of Teatro Colón behind schedule, which shouldn't surprise anyone, the theater will not be ready for its 100th anniversary on May 25th. I...

I promise to get back to some postings about things other than the city that fades away series. (I have an upcoming set of posts about opera in Buenos Aires)....

Some people obviously look around Buenos Aires and see tremendous opportunity. A large population, crumbling buildings, cheap labor, and apparently little...

Yes, it's time for another entry in the City that Fades Away series. On the way to the fish market Saturday I saw this building on Piedras that is getting...
One of my particular topics of interest is immigration to Argentina, particularly Eastern European, Jewish or Italian immigration but also from other countries...
At some point around two this morning I finally got around to reading this thoughtful essay by fellow San Telmo resident Marcelo Ballvé, The Literary Alchemy...
I've started reading the blog Planet of the Blind by author Stephen Kuusisto , who has been "legally blind" since birth. In a post titled " Spoons in the Snow...

Went up to San Isidro to visit the home of Villa Ocampo , one of the homes of Victoria Ocampo. The Web site for Villa Ocampo is actually quite good and...

One of my readers here in Buenos Aires, Dolores, sent me the following photos of abandoned or taken houses for the City that Fades Away series. Catamarca y...
if you like old houses

Here's a lovely building on the corner of Virrey Cevallos and Carlos Calvo in Constitución. All the doors are boarded and the building appears to be vacant. I...

That attention-grabbing headline could have been written about several periods of Argentine history in the 20th century but this particular instance is from...

Finally, finally made it over to the Homage to Girondo at the Xul Solar Museum. Today is the last day of the two month exhibition, so if you didn't make it...
Out of the Woods Now is one of those good literary blogs you should be reading if you're interested in such things...A posting from earlier this week is on The...
Some photos from Monday's Fiesta de la Democracia in Plaza de Mayo. The crowd wasn't nearly as large as it looks in the photos or on TV. Everybody was crammed...
Yesterday I walked down to Av de Mayo to witness the inauguration day parade of Cristina Fernández de Kirchner. Scores of buses that had carried people in from...

I've prepared a free e-book on Buenos Aires pulled from the archives of my blog. The e-book is 57 pages . There is still a lot more content in the archives...

Ok, this will be the last in my recent postings about demolished houses and new construction in Barracas. That is, unless I come across some other...

This belonged to a recently emptied space on Montes de Oca, though I do rather like the curve of the balcony and the awning over the upper door. Both reminds...
Part 42,748 in the City that Fades Away series. Yesterday I walked over to the Easy in Barracas to buy a lamp for my writing desk. On the way I came across...
Amid the exhaust of traffic, tucked away on a side street in the center of the city is a glorious church that is likely visited by few foreigners (though Pope...
Sitting home on a quiet Sunday reading the newspapers, then there's all this noise outside...sirens, loudspeakers, drums...sounds like a demonstration of some...
I was going through my photos from September to see if I had anything to share with you. I found this perspective of these side-by-side buildings on the 800...
Earlier this week I was giving Donald, a faithful blog reader and new friend from New York, a walking tour of Flores. We took the A line out to Caballito, then...
Clean streets, charming houses, shady trees.... . . . . . . I suspect that most people would never guess the right answer: La Boca. I'm keeping the exact name...
Ian over at GoodAirs has a good post about the demolition of old houses in Palermo to make way for more apartment towers. The post fits in well with my ongoing...

Every visit to Recoleta Cemetery reveals a tomb, a statue, a plaque that I've not seen before. Just visiting the cemetery in the morning rather than afternoon...

You've researched the trip, planned the itinerary, booked the reservations, and now you're ready for the onslaught: a week or two of rushing around trying to...
Irish writer Keith Ridgway has a post on his blog about Borges in Ireland and how a 5 year-old Ridgway met the Argentine writer in 1971.
I try to look in, even briefly, on the blogs by travelers to Buenos Aires. Most cover the same familiar territory, some offer helpful tips for the tourists,...

This spot should certainly find itself on Robert's upcoming map of Barracas. Way down at the corner of Montes de Oca and California is Bar El Progreso. A sign...

In late summer 2001, while I was living in South Beach, a young French couple rented a room in my house for a month. One day Adrian was looking over my...
Tucked down along the smelly river in La Boca is one of the oldest (or, dating from 1865, is it the oldest?) train stations in Buenos Aires, Barraca Peña. If...

Why do we travel? Why do we have that desire, that yearning, to visit far away places? What is it about our lives that we seek to fulfill elsewhere? Perhaps,...
John Perry , a professor in the philosophy department at Stanford, recently gave a lecture at Amherst College titled \" ”˜Borges and I’ and ”˜I’ ”. (via...
Away from the tourist circuit in La Boca stands this abandoned building, which is missing most of its roof. Along the side street, a small opening in the wall...
Not much to say about today's presidential election in Argentina, certainly no surprises. I don't have a problem with a Cristina presidency. Indeed, all the...
The good folks at Three Percent have a couple of mentions about Argentine writer Rodolfo Fogwill whose novel Los Pichiciegos has just been released in English...
I was looking through my photos from this month and it took me a minute to realize where this corner was located. In my "walking tours" around Buenos Aires I...
Earlier this month on la Noche de los Museos I had the chance to go inside the Casa Fernández Blanco (not to be confused with the building that is the Museo de...
I've never been much interested in reading literature from the perspective of how characters either exercise or are subjected to power in a story's context....
Two years ago I wrote a post about Maurycy Minkowski , a Polish-Jewish artist whose life came to a tragic end shortly after arriving in Buenos Aires. Earlier...

Seems like everybody is talking about Barracas these days. Robert is busy mapping points of interest in Barracas and yesterday I was joined on a walk around...
TO BE TRANSLATED OR NOT TO BE (pdf) is a new report on the "international situation of literary translation" produced by International PEN and the Institut...
There's an exciting new community newspaper for the San Telmo neighborhood: El Sol de San Telmo The first issue came out this month and can be found at various...
One of my favorite writers that I've started to read during these past couple of years living in Buenos Aires is not an Argentine but an Englishman who spent...
Grown weary of those cliché articles about traveling to South American cities, the stylized descriptions of snazzy hotels and restaurants imitating trends...
...another in the city that fades away series... A couple of years ago this building was the headquarters for one of the leftist political groups. I forget...
At the end of 2006 Buenos Aires, City of Faded Elegance was accepted into the 9rules blogging network. I felt very honored to be accepted into the 9rules...
Yesterday I wrote about the protest in front of the building right next door to where I live . Today we swing over to other side of my building. Today is it a...
I write this post to the sounds of drums just outside my apartment building on Av Caseros. (It's not the first time that I've been awaken to the sound of drums...
I spent some time today playing around with a very cool interactive map of Buenos Aires developed by the city government. Warning: you can find yourself...
The Mirror Man is an excellent documentary about Jorge Luis Borges. I recently learned (via flameape ) that the documentary is available online at UBUWEB , a...
Robert and I were walking around Palermo the other day and came across this nice old house with its window shuttered on Cabello. I'm not sure if someone is now...
On the #10 bus the other day I saw this sign above the exit door .... good advice to remember as you're stepping out into the world or returning to your home:...
There was a rather odd sight in downtown Buenos Aires on Thursday as the city's landmark Obelisco was draped in fabric displaying the national colors of...
Walking back last night from the Julio López march I turned down Bolívar and was pleased to see that the scaffolding and support structures finally have been...
...against the side of the Cabildo before a march to mark the disappearance of Jorge Julio López one year ago.
Shel of the quite interesting Global Neighborhoods blog has a post about Ignacio Escribano & the Argentine citizen journalism/social media site Igooh (a...
I returned to Buenos Aires this weekend after a short trip to visit family in Tennessee. Fortunately I wa able to get a cheap flight from using my frequent...
If you take the bus in Buenos Aires, which you should do sometime, you will have discovered that some of the bus stops are hard to find. Some bus stops, like...
This is why I started the City that Fades Away series . Architecture is one of the distinguishing aspects of Buenos Aires. I'm perplexed whenever...
There's a new hotel that has been going up over the last year near Puerto Madero. It's not on the level of competing with the Hilton or the Faena but could...
I never tire of walking down Av de Mayo. Even though I've walked the avenue many times, I always gain a new perspective. Perhaps it's just observing the...
Yet another mystery as to why an old wagon is sitting in front of this house in Barracas....just another one of those daily sights that make Buenos Aires such...
Nothing outstanding to say here. I just liked the looks of these buildings.

of this guy? I came across this photo taken by Esteban Diacono (who, BTW, has some great photos) the other day when I was browsing through Flickr . But, I've...
Following-up to the post about trendy stores coming into San Telmo is this photo of the words "This is not Palermo" scrawled on the wall of the new Puma store...
Few people venture along the side streets behind Constitución station but there are some pleasant surprises (and I'm not talking about the transvestite...

Over the last month as I've been walking down Defensa in San Telmo I've felt that something was different, something was missing, but I couldn't quite figure...
Over the past week I've noticed some colorful figures sprouting up on the walls of San Telmo and Barracas. Here's a couple of Web sites relating to the...
A hundred years ago one of the most prominent civil engineers in the U.S. was Elmer Corthell . At the beginning of the last century he journeyed to Buenos...

When I think of late 19th century anarchists I tend to imagine some slovenly dressed, ratty haired, vaguely Russian looking dude. But there were some women...

"What is the use of writing poetry during a period of unrestrained fascism?" Over this past month I've been reading and re-reading an essay by the poet...

While browsing around the Web today I came across this posting about the Codex Seraphianus , a possibly Borges inspired encyclopedia of a foreign world...
Strange, I look out the window and there's snow....very, very little...in Tennessee we would barely call it a flurry but here in Buenos Aires it's almost ......
This blog has been quiet for the last couple of weeks while my sister Karen and my 16 year-old twin nieces visited Buenos Aires. Here's a photo of Kaitlyn and...
My sister and her daughters are in town visiting for a while. Yesterday they were wandering along Florida street and brought some cookies back to the...
A new blog about William Henry Hudson points to a nice article in The Christian Science Monitor: William Henry Hudson, "A Revival of Argentina's Thoreau" ....
A good friend of mine from college, David Román, is currently visiting Argentina. David is an environmental lawyer who teaches at the University of Puerto...
The delightfully well-written and stimulating blog Cocktail Party Physics provides a history lesson about cholera epidemics and, along the way, highlights the...
Okay, this has nothing to do with Buenos Aires...... I'm occasionally asked about good, cheap, affordable, low-cost hosting for Web sites. There are a lot of...

Here's a wonderful photo blog that I wished I had discovered sooner, when it was still active. Gustavo Romano is an artist in Buenos Aires who photographed the...
Every time I look around there seems to be more and more art galleries in San Telmo, which simply adds to the overall number of art galleries in Buenos Aires....
On one of my walks last week up Av de Mayo I decided at Congreso to turn left onto Entre Rios rather than my usual pattern of taking Callao into Barrio Norte....
I'm starting an irregular series of posts, The City that Fades Away , about the old, abandoned, crumbling buildings around Buenos Aires. I find these buildings...
Robert, just returned from the other side of the world, was over for dinner last night talking about how Tangier is the next Buenos Aires . Sounds fascinating!...
Usually when I walk down Av Regimiento de Patricios, the boundary between Barracas and La Boca, it's during the week when all the stores are open. A Sunday...
The North American Congress on Latin America (NACLA) has published a really good article on its site about a very worthy initiative: Children of Disappeared...
Ken is a good friend of mine from grad school whose 7 year-old daughter Hannah is participating in the Flat Stanley project . Hannah sent her flat friend,...

As I mentioned yesterday, 30 April marks the 30th year of the Madres de Plaza de Mayo. Until seeing Clarín this morning I didn't realize that one of the...
Last week while walking down Av de Mayo I saw a couple of guys putting up these posters about tomorrow's (30 April) celebration of the 30th anniversary of the...
Last night we were over at the home of Carlos, a professor of graphic design at UBA, who lives in a nice casa chorizo in the barrio of Agronomía. After an...

I've not checked into the Irish Migration Studies in Latin American site in quite a while, but thanks to a link on Archivalia I see that there is some...
I came across a posting about riding the bus as one of the things that tourists don't do in Buenos Aires. I suspect that's true for the most part. I highly...
The annual Buenos Aires book fair opens its doors to the public today and runs through May 7. It's an excellent showcase for Argentine writings though not as...
I've not been sleeping much at night lately. Last night I went to bed after 3 a.m., read for a long time in bed, then woke up just a little after 6 a.m. ......
I'm writing this very early on a Sunday morning and in a few hours the tourists will be descending on San Telmo for the weekly "antiques" fair. I actually...
Every time I wander along Av Chile I intend to take a photo of these three plaques in the sidewalk that commemorate three people abducted more than thirty...
Just a window scene from an early morning walk around Barracas....
Continuing with our look at the political posters for the upcoming city elections .... This has to be one of the oddest political posters around town. At...
From all the signs hanging on the outside of buildings, this must be the time to sell in San Telmo. (I count 9 for sale signs in this photo). I just wish that...
Everybody is grumbling about inflation in Buenos Aires these days.....painted on the corner of Brasil and Piedras is this demand for minimum salaries of 2,400...
It's political season again here in Buenos Aires with the city's elections just a couple months away. That means posters are popping up all over the city....
It's easy to identify the classic writers in any language but learning about the respected contemporary writers is much more difficult. The SPLALit blog has...
As being discussed extensively on the BANEWCOMERS list, I checked my cable and found that the BBC and CNN channels are no longer available. Evidently, the...
It has been a while since my last post but it's time to get back to posting more frequently. A few posts back I talked about a series of remarkable books by...
Continuing my ongoing theme of Italian immigration to Argentina I've come across a posting at the Olive Tree Genealogy blog about an individual who has posted...
The other day on her blog Diva pointed out that you can do a cheap tour of Buenos Aires on the #24 bus. I take that bus often and it does have a lot of...
In another post I have to describe my long, almost futile, search among Buenos Aires bookstores for Eduardo Galeano's remarkable, three volume Memoria del...
You spend an early, warm summer evening relaxing to live music before a stage positioned in the center of Plaza de Mayo. A woman waits near the fountain for...
Seems like more and more film crews are popping up in San Telmo. Whether they're for commercials or movies, I don't know. Coming back from Walrus Books late...
This post inaugurates a new category - On the bus - an occasional series of anecdotes from travels on the city buses. Country Music Growing up in a small town...

January 24th marks 40 years since the death of the Argentine poet Oliverio Girondo. As a leader of the avant garde in 1920s Buenos Aires, Girondo wrote a...

One of my favorite historical topics is the intellectual and cultural history of the early twentieth century. Recently I've been reading a book titled Yrigoyen...
If you're not seen Comet McNaught, then you've missed a spectacular sight. I took a couple of photos Sunday night from the roof of our building but the photos...
Lately I've blogged about my street, Av Caseros, so I figured it's a good time to talk about the place behind the name. Caseros, in addition to being a street...
Changes are underway at local TV station canal 9 after Mexican media mogul Angel Gonzalez (who now lives in Miami) brought 80% of the TV station. I'm not sure...
Thursday marked four months from the disappearance of Jorge Julio Lopez , an elderly witness who has been missing since testifying in the trial against a...
In my last post I mentioned that I would say more about this block of apartment buildings on the 400 block of Av Caseros. I adore this set of buildings,...
A message from a good friend of mine from college who is now an architect prompts me to write about the buildings on the street where I live in Buenos Aires....
On the ground floor of the building where I formerly lived, there was a shoe store that had been in business since 1940. Everyone who worked inside was quite...
Last night marked the second anniversary of the fire at a concert in the República Cromagnon nightclub that killed 194 people. Taped to the barricade in front...
Thirty of December, the next to last day of the year. Friday brought the hottest day of the season so far. Summer has arrived in Buenos Aires and the city...
A recent issue of Ñ had the usual end-of-year review of books published in 2006 with a list of recommended readings. Here's the list of foreign books that Ñ...

Last week I received news that this blog has been accepted into the 9rules network of weblogs. I'm very excited about that and consider it a big honor. I've...
How did I not know this? While wandering around the coast of Argentina I saw several buildings with the name Stella Maris . Earlier in the year in Miramar I...
I was at Abasto yesterday and the mall was packed with people, which isn't surprising since it's just before Christmas. But then I noticed that very few people...
Saw this drawing on the side of an abandoned building on the Argentine coast. I'm told that it's rather funny to anyone familiar with Argentine pop culture....
Just returned from a week on the Argentine coast. Stayed in a small village called Dunamar, which is on the other side of Tres Arroyos, about 8 hours by bus...

Heading down to the Atlantic coast of Argentina for a few days of relaxation. Taking along some good books, the iPod, and looking forward to being away from...
For some reason I was fascinated with this set of windows from an old, abandoned factory in Barracas.
Barracas isn't just a bunch of old factories . There are also some very nice houses there, such as this place on a cobblestone street. Of course, I guess some...
We went for an early morning walk around Barracas on Sunday, which is a great time to see the old factory buildings in that part of the city. Just around the...

María Kodama is a well-known figure among porteños but those not familiar with the life of Jorge Luis Borges, who died in 1986 at the age of 86, may be...
Towards the back of Parque Lezama, just before the park slopes down towards La Boca, is a replica of a Greek temple that always has intrigued me. Whenever I...
As a follow-up to last week's post about the early 19th-century associations of Afro-Argentines in Buenos Aires, I want to mention a digitizing project of the...
Augunga, Kisama, Maravi, Monyolo, Mina Nagó, Sabalu ... these were some of the names of the more than fifty African "nations" that existed in Buenos Aires...
Here's an odd house that I encountered while wandering the streets one Saturday. I've seen a few other houses in Buenos Aires of this same style but was...
I noticed that the 2007 edition of the Buenos Aires book fair already has its Web site up: Feria Internacional del Libro de Buenos Aires . It will run from...
Continues part I .... Early 1800s a family of singers - husband, wife, brother-in-law - tour the north of Italy, stopping in Piacenza and Reggio Emilia....
A fourteen-year-old Yiddish-speaking boy, born in a shtetl outside of Kiev, forced to work since the age of ten, is shot during the 1905 Russian revolution....
For most who pass along calle Suipacha, the plain, unassuming house next to Palacio Noel goes unnoticed. Thousands of houses and apartments in Buenos Aires...
One of my favorite museums in Buenos Aires is the Museo de Arte Hispanoamericano Isaac Fernández Blanco. (That's a long name!) It's located at Suipacha 1422...
Robert's posting about Buenos Aires in bloom inspired me to walk over to Parque Lezama and take a look at the jacaranda trees which are so pretty this time of...
Last week I mentioned that the best illustrated version of Charles Darwin's Voyage of the Beagle was a 1942 edition published in Buenos Aires. The librarian...
When I started working with the Cuban Heritage Collection at the University of Miami library I was surprised to learn about the Irish who had settled in Cuba....
G.W. Ray was a 19th century North American missionary but he is remembered more for being a long rider, someone who traveled more than 1,000 miles on horseback...
I was walking down the stairs of the apartment building the other day when one of the neighbors sighed and said that someone stole the brass handle to the...
Interested in South America and have a scientific bent? Then lose yourself for weeks among the complete work of Charles Darwin , now available online. It's...
One of the mysteries that I love about Buenos Aires is never knowing what is behind a building's facade. Earlier I mentioned the enchanting bookstores on...
There's something about bookstores that attract me, perhaps the adventure of never knowing what waits inside. Buenos Aires is full of bookstores and, downtown,...
A listing of the 30 Days with Borges series. Also, these and additional postings about Borges can be found under the Borges category. day 1: Introduction day...
There are a lot of hearts on display in Retiro, around Plaza San Martín and Palacio Paz. Like the Cow Parade and other similar displays the hearts are for a...
The other day walking down calle Marcelo T. de Alvear I saw a plaque on a building that I've never noticed before. The sign said that Uruguayan artist Pedro...
Update: May 25, 2010 - Teatro Colón is now re-opened after a 3 year renovation. . At the end of the month, Buenos Aires great opera house Teatro Colón will be...
Again on Wednesday evening several human rights groups led a march down Avenida de Mayo from Congreso to Plaza de Mayo to protest the disappearance of Jorge...
It's not everyday that the body of a famous historical figure rides through the streets. So, I took a break yesterday and walked over to Paseo Colón for the...
One of the exciting aspects about living in a city such as Buenos Aires is encountering the unexpected. Walking home at night along Defensa through San Telmo...
One of the things I don't like about working more these days is that it leaves little time for blogging or even reading the almost 400 blogs that I have in my...
18 months have gone by since I moved to Buenos Aires. It's such a short time, particularly compared to those who have lived here for years or even their entire...
In a comment to my last posting Robert mentioned the high rise towers being developed in Puerto Madero. For those of you who haven't been down to Puerto Madero...
My thoughts on Puerto Madero are know to regular readers of this site. Lately I've been doing a lot of work, spending most of my days, in one of those office...

Saturday, 16 September, is the 30th anniversay of La Noche de los Lápiches (The Night of the Pencils), another sad but notable event from the most recent...
Across Av Caseros from the old prison is a very nice park, Parque Ameghino. I'm very fond of the parks and plazas scattered through Buenos Aires, so I thought...
Continuing my walk along Av Caseros beyond the hospital zone I saw on the next block an old building with a turret. At first I couldn't imagine it's purpose,...
Saturday morning I wanted to explore an area of Buenos Aires that I've not seen on foot, an area that I've only passed through on the bus or the backseat of a...
I've been away from the blog for a good part of this last month. The first thing that consumed my time was a big move to another apartment. Then just after we...
I'm blogging about shoes? Yep, looks like I am. Ceci came back from a day of shopping in Once. In the '90s she had a clothing store in that neighborhood, so...
Every few days I see a story on the news or a sign on the streets commemorating the thirtieth anniversary of somone who was disappeared , such as this poster:...
Not everyone reads the paper or watches the news on TV. But everyone sees the posters on the street. On Friday posters were pasted to the city's walls...
Cecilia and I had a late night out Saturday visiting with friends. When we came back to the apartment at 3am, the door to the apartment was pushed open. (The...
A while back I had I heard a rumor that Cosmos, the independent cinema on Av Corrientes, was about to close. Pasa en Buenos Aires , an interesting, new blog...
Friday's Clarín ran an article on Thomas Pynchon as preparation for Pynchon's new book coming out this December. The Clarín article continues to perpetuate the...
One of the blogs that I try to read every week is New Media Musings: Charting the rise of open, democratic, grassroots media . The author of that blog, J.D....
Just a few blocks down the street from me is Parque Lezama. During the week I often wander down there for a stroll or to sit on a bench under the shade and...
Google Earth is a fun way to waste time or to explore the world. It's fun to do a flyover of your neighborhood and spot your house and all sorts of things. I...

Laura has a good posting about learning Spanish and the dialect used around Buenos Aires. It reminded me about a project at the University of Iowa, Phonetics:...

One of my former colleagues from the University of Miami was in town this week. Schlomit is from Argentina but she has lived abroad for many years, first in...
I generally find little to read in the English-language Buenos Aires Herald but occasionally the Herald surprises me. In the Sunday edition Herald editor...
Okay, the title of this post is a little misleading, sorry....literary blog Conversational Reading recommends Manuel Puig's Eternal Curse on the Reader of...

I saw most of the Italy-Germany game at home but had to skip the overtime to meet Ceci at the cardiac institute where her father had a procedure on Tuesday....
Someday we'll make it up to Brazil to attend the Festa Literária Internacional de Parati , which surely must be one of the world's great literary festivals....
Big losses in the World Cup this weekend....not sure whom I'm cheering for now, Italy, perhaps Portugal. Yesterday, just before the Argentina-Germany game I...
Singer David Byrne has been hanging out in Buenos Aires lately with the band La Portuaria. On his blog Bynre writes about a bike ride around Palermo , making a...
It has been a long time since reading Gravity's Rainbow and I wasn't thinking about Borges at the time. But literary blogger Maud Newton points to an article...
It's the weekend so it's time for the tourists to descend upon San Telmo for the antique fair. San Telmo is actually much nicer during the week when it is not...
It's a sad day in my barrio. Four blocks from my apartment is, or was, one of my favorite, old spots in the city, Bar Británico. Located in San Telmo at the...
Ceci just finished reading the book Las viudas de los jueves by Claudia Piñeiro and highly recommends it. It's only available in Spanish and can be widely...

This is the last day of my "30 days with Borges" series. It has been fun being absorbed into the world of Borges and writing these posts. (Sorry that some have...
I don't remember reading the poetry of Borges until after I started visiting Buenos Aires. A few years ago I read one of his earliest poems Las calles , which...
Calle desconocida is an early poem by Borges that captures a particular feeling about wandering the streets of Buenos Aires. Some selected lines: In that hour...

Years ago when I first started reading Borges I remember being fascinated with all the streets of Buenos Aires that he mentions in his stories. At the time I...
During the big football games I'm accustom to hearing cheers from the streets whenever there is a goal. But when Argentina scored its first goal this morning...
Here I was sitting at the computer in my San Telmo apartment when I hear a helicopter flying around outside. That's rather unusual for this area so I stepped...

At first, "El Zahir" seems like another Borges story about Buenos Aires. There are a lot of specific locations mentioned. The Zahir is a coin that the narrator...

"Every one of us is, in some way, all the people who have died before us." Twenty years ago today Jorge Luis Borges died in Geneva at age 86. His longtime...

Published in his 1981 poetry collection La Cifra , The Limit, when Borges was in his eighties. The actual title of this poem in the original Spanish version is...
I just returned from my neighborhood Coto, the largest grocery store chain here in Argentina. The San Telmo store on Av Brasil has two TVs showing the Mundial,...
I've written before about the great voice of Mercedes Sosa. Now via youtube you can see and hear Mercedes Sosa performing the beautiful "Gracias a la vida" ....

Yesterday I wrote about an essay by Borges titled Feeling in Death . A good companion piece to that essay is the poem The Cyclical Night , La noche ciclica....
"life is too impoverished not to be immortal." In 1928 Borges wrote a short essay titled Sentirse en muerte , Feeling in Death. He would come back to this...
In Argentina people have been buying new TV sets for months. I was in a bookstore today that had brought in a TV set just to watch Argentina play in the...
That could have been the subtitle of Williamson's biography of Borges. The Irish writer Colm Tóibín, who knows Buenos Aires very well, explains the situation:...
"Then I reflected that all things happen to oneself, and happen precisely, precisely now. Century follows century, yet events occur only in the present;...
"Little by little, a man comes to resemble the shape of his destiny; a man is, in the long run, his circumstances. Un hombre se confunde, gradualamente, con la...
There are a lot of Web sites focused on Borges. For the student and researcher the best site is the Borges Center at the University of Iowa. The site is...

Adrogue Originally uploaded by sabor: limalimon . Just to the south of the city of Buenos Aires is the small town of Adrogué. Borges spent a lot of time in...
Libraries, labyrinths, and the fact that anything is ever written are constant themes in the works of poems. Here are a few lines from the poem "Alexandria,...
Honestly, I keep wanting to find reasons to dislike Borges, to find evidence that he's overrated. But from a literary perspective, the more I read,...

At least according to Google Trends , which is a new tool from the folks at Google that allows you to waste more time online, uh, "compare the world's interest...
" He understood that the task of molding the incoherent and dizzying stuff that dreams are made of is the most difficult work a man can undertake ."...
Update : Walrus books now has a Web site, go to www.walrus-books.com.ar Walrus Books , my favorite English language bookstore in Buenos Aires, has just opened...
"Tlön, Uqbar, Orbis Tertius" appears as the first story in the Ficciones collection by Borges. "Tlön, Uqbar, Orbis Tertius" is one of the most difficult...
"El remordimiento" [Remorse] is a poem from the 1976 collection "La moneda de hierro" [The Iron Coin], selected lines: I have committed the worst sin of all...
"No one cares about facts anymore. They are mere points of departure for speculation and exercises in creativity. In school we are taught Doubt, and the Art of...
"To fall in love is to create a religion with a fallible god." - Borges That gem of a line is from an obscure essay by Borges on one of the most striking...
"Imagine, in an Oriental library, a panel painted many centuries ago. It may be Arabic, and we are told that all the legends of The Thousand and One Nights are...
Lines from one of the later poems, La Dicha/Happiness: Los libros de la biblioteca no tienen letras. Cuando los abro surgen ... Loado sea el amor en el que no...

On their way to the party yesterday in Plaza de Mayo a number of buses came by the apartment. The photo shows a line of about a dozen buses from Lomas de...
30 Days with Borges: Day 7, I am a blind man In the 1975 collection of poems LA ROSA PROFUNDA/AN UNENDING ROSE, there are two short poems by Borges, appearing...
Today is Independence Day in Argentina. La Patria was very important to Borges, though he usually wasn't in agreement with the popular governments. More on...

Paul Auster has long been one of my favorite writers. Evidently, he's also a favorite among readers in Buenos Aires. Last Sunday's PERFIL newspaper listed...
One of the reasons that I'm writing this series is to introduce readers to Borges. I'm not writing for literary scholars; I have nothing new to add in that...
Shakespeare's Memory was the last story published by Borges. It is often overlooked in reviews of the stories. Some cite that the story wasn't totally revised...
My favorite stories by Borges keep changing, but here's a list of my top 10 at this moment (in chronological order): Tlön, Uqbar, Orbis Tertius The Circular...
After Borges became totally blind, he would ask a variety of people to read to him. Starting in 1964, one of the people who had that pleasure was Alberto...
June 14 will mark twenty years since the death of Jorge Luis Borges. In honor of his writings, I'm starting a new blog series called "30 Days with Borges" that...
A book recently translated into English should be on interest to those who admire Buenos Aires: The Tango Singer is the latest novel by Tomás Eloy Martínez....
We finally made it out to the Book Fair at La Rural. If you're in town and not yet been, then there are still a few more days. If you like books, then you...
Ever since I wrote the posting about Borges and Judas, then the one about Easter in Miramar, I'm seeing a lot of religious advertising on my blog ...I've not...
You are welcome to share your story if you are a tourist and victim of crime in Buenos Aires. Your experiences may help others avoid a problem. Feb 8, 2012...
I've never understood the fascination of porteños with Puerto Madero. Other than the bridge designed by Calatrava, I've never seen Puerto Madero as anything...
We spent the long holiday weekend in the coastal resort town of Miramar, which is about 50 km west of Mar del Plata. We went with a group of friends, one of...
National Geographic is getting a lot of publicity for its research on the Gospel of Judas , a heresy just in time for Holy Week. It's actually quite...
I've been away from the blog for almost a month even though a lot happened this past month. There was the 30 year anniversary of the beginnings of the...
Two years ago Ceci and I visited India. I presented a paper at the International Conference on Digital Libraries in Delhi and, afterwards, we spent two weeks...

Just past noon on Tuesday I wandered up to the center of the city to see what was happening around the city legislature building as the political trial of...

Late Monday afternoon I walked over to Plaza de Mayo where families of victims from the Cromagnon nightclub fire were starting a vigil. The families had placed...

I also could have titled this post "Wake-up Drums". I've again been staying up very late writing (not blogging), often till 3 or 4 am, so I sleep late. Today I...
In a recent post about the Mothers of the Plaza de Mayo, I mentioned the Grandmothers of the Plaza de Mayo who are focused on identifying the children who are...
Saturday night we went to the park in Palermo to see Mercedes Sosa perform. It was a free concert on a nice summer night, so there was a huge crowd. It wasn't...
The New York Public Library Digital Gallery has a small collection of 28 digitized images of posters advertising Yiddish theater performances in Buenos Aires...
Santiago in Brooklyn, who appears to be a transplanted porteño, has a funny posting titled Are you from Buenos Aires? with a list of You know you're a porteño...

We forgot to make reservations for Valentine's dinner at a nice restaurant. The ones we called at the last minute were all booked, so we just decided to wander...

Last week a friend of a friend was in town. He was staying in San Telmo, so we took him over to Bar El Federal for dinner. Located on the corner of Perú and...
I ran across an interesting series of postings Michael Alvarez, a professor of political science at Cal Tech, who observed last October's election in...

Last month Ceci and I walked over to the Constitución station and took a bus to Quilmes. After about 45 minutes on the late afternoon bus, so crowded with...

After 25 years and 1,500 Thursdays, the Madres de Plaza de Mayo made a historic last march in Plaza de Mayo. The Pirámide, around which the Madres march every...

On New Year's Day we went with our friends Ceci and Nestor to Tigre, the fascinating Paraná river delta that flows into the Rio de la Plata. Tigre itself is a...

I'm often asked by tourists for a list of things to do in Buenos Aires. So, here's my list of things tourists should try to do while visiting Buenos Aires....

The other night we went to El Cuartito, one of the classic pizzerias in Buenos Aires. There are pizzerias all over the city. This was my first visit to El...

Ever since moving to San Telmo I've noticed this man every weekday on calle Piedras. He brings the grill and has his own little restaurant on the sidewalk in...
The short story dominates Argentine literature. These stories often are not based in realism but in a fantastical realm that examines the meaning of identity...
Over the past couple of days I’ve been casting about for a book to read and then realized that today, December 28, would have been Manuel Puig’s seventy-third...
The only questions of importance were those which a man asked himself. Another book that I have just finished is The Honorary Consul by Graham Greene. The...
Last week I went to KEL's, an English language bookstore in Barrio Norte, to pick up some books that I've been wanting to read. I highly recommend J.M....

Lately I've been staying awake all night, writing and reading. Around 5 am I hear a rooster crowing, which is really rather odd living within walking distance...

I have a fondness for old churches. One of the prettiest churches that I've recently seen in Buenos Aires is Templo de Santa Lucía in Barracas at Av Montes de...

Across from a train viaduct in a southern barrio of Buenos Aires is the mural of a street scene with various additions from other artists: visible through the...
Saturday we explored Barracas, one of the southern barrios of Buenos Aires. It's one of those places that most visitors to Buenos Aires never see unless...

Finally went out today and took this photo of our apartment building in San Telmo. That's our apartment at the top. The old doors and windows are wonderful....
Having stayed up all night, I just finished reading Colm Toibin's The Master , a powerful novel about Henry James. What does that have to do with Buenos Aires?...

This photo is of the entrance hallway to our building. This part is covered but when you go just beyond the door in the photo you entered into a part of the...

There's a lot of anti-Bush posters and graffiti going up all over town. Here's some of the posters I saw in San Telmo. It says "Mr. Bush, is this the democracy...
Andres Oppenheimer, columnist for the Miami Herald, and a native of Argentina, has an interesting perspective on the Maradona-led rally against the visit of...

Here's another photo from our apartment in San Telmo. This one is of the window in the office.
This weekend we went to the Antiquarian Book Fair in Buenos Aires at the Palais de Glace. Since I'm a librarian and Ceci's a book designer, we were both...
I've been meaning to write a little about Diego Maradona ever since seeing this perceptive post about Diego Armando Maradona over at Altered Argentina . A...
I've not actually been away from Baires but have been away from this blog for more than a month. Just been hanging out not doing much of anything...lately I've...
This post isn't about Buenos Aires specifically but anyone interested in Spanish literature knows that 2005 is the 400th anniversary of the publication of Don...
Anyone interested in cultural and historical topics about Latin America should consider subscribing to the magazine published by the Organization of American...
Times are getting more and more difficult for translating literature into other languages, particularly English. Basically, it's a business issue. English...
I stumbled across this excellent essay by David Rock titled Racking Argentina that provides a solid background for understanding today's current economic...

Buenos Aires is simply full of fascinating buildings. Around the corner from our apartment is this old Quilmes beer distribution facility.
Borges had fostered an intense dislike for Perón for years. The latest biography of Borges ( Borges: A Life ) recounts the story that the writer told about his...

September 19, 2005 is the 50th anniversary of the coup that ousted Juan Perón from power. Evidently, from these posters, some people just haven't gotten over...

I mentioned in my earlier posting about the Night of the Pencils march that la Pirámide de Mayo became a target for creative political expression on Friday...

This appeared on the front wall of the Cabildo during Friday night's march. More graffiti that appeared on the Cabildo that night can be found on my flickr...

On September 16, 1976 seven teenagers in La Plata were kidnapped by the government for protesting bus fares. Only one of the teens survived, the rest became...
Perhaps the characteristic that I enjoy most about Buenos Aires is its abundance of cafés. These are charming places where you can meet a friend or just sit...
It's well-known that Argentina has one of the highest literacy rates in Latin America. One admirable way that reading is encouraged is through low-cost...

On the first of this month we finally made our move to San Telmo on a Wednesday night. We are now living in this lovely old building (thanks to our friend...

Clarín, one of the leading daily papers in Buenos Aires, is issuing a special supplement over the next several Sundays titled La Fotografía en la Historia...

This posting continues Piqueteros, the Argentine Government, & the Right to March into Plaza de Mayo . What should have been an anti-Bush rally in Plaza de...

Plaza de Mayo always has been a popular gathering spot for political assemblies in Buenos Aires. It's the historic plaza of the city: on one end of the Plaza...
On Friday we were walking through Palermo Chico and around the embassies when we came across Victoria Ocampo's house in Palermo. It's not as well known as...
Sunday's Clarín ran an article about the Audiovideoteca de Escritores de Buenos Aires , a project that is developing an online collection of audio and video...
One of my favorite characteristics of Buenos Aires are the many kiosks selling newspapers and magazines. Unlike North America you cannot buy magazines in the...
Last Friday night we went with our friend Adriana to see FUERZABRUTA . We had been intending to go since the show started in May but just now got around to it....
An entry over at Going Global about students in the U.S. learning Chinese as a second language reminded me of an article in the Miami Herald that I read last...
A book I've been reading lately is The Jewish Gauchos of the Pampas [Los Gauchos Judíos] by Alberto Gerchunoff. Through a series of 26 interlocking stories it...
Writer Jeremy Sheldon, author of the new novel The Smiling Affair , was asked by the Guardian to prepare a list of his Top 10 Supernatural Books . In the list...
One of the pleasures of living here in Buenos Aires is encountering novelists and poets that have been unknown to me. Almost each day I seem to "discover" an...

I was walking around Av de Mayo this afternoon when I noticed that this poster had sprung up around the downtown area. It's a poignant reminder about the lack...
The balcony of our 11th floor apartment overlooks the neighborhood of Once. The area is characterized as being predominantly Jewish and as the garment district...
Julio Cortázar (1914-1984) is one of the towering figures of Argentine literature. Yet, Cortázar is hardly known in the English speaking world even among the...
With the largest Jewish population in Latin America Buenos Aires has 50 Orthodox synagogues, five Conservative, and one Reform . Eighty percent of Argentine...
With the massive immigration to Argentina in the late 1800s, different ethnic groups tended to congregate in specific neighborhods. Here's a sample of...
This week AMIA , the Jewish Community Center is Buenos Aires, is commemorating the 11 year anniversary of the bombing of AMIA that killed 85 people. In memory...
The history of Yellow Fever in the 19th century is fascinating. The disease, whose cause and cure was unknown at the time, was feared throughout the Americas....
Somewhere, way back, I have some ancestors from Ireland. My last name of Barry is certainly very Irish. Imagine my surprise when I first saw the name Barry as...
AMIA, the Jewish Community Center of Buenos Aires, has an online database of grave locations for the four Jewish cemeteries [ update : this link is updated and...
So, how did I not know until now that Fernando Lamas, that suave icon of bad TV acting in the 1970s was from Buenos Aires? Of course, Lamas, who died in 1982,...
July 9 is not only Argentina's Independence Day but today is also the 70th birthday of singer Mercedes Sosa . Mercedes Sosa is one of the most well-known...
Xul Solar (1887-1963) is one of the most significant artists of the 20th century, yet he is little known outside of his native Argentina. Repeatedly, I have...
One topic that I've been following is the growth in outsourcing information technology services from the U.S. to Latin America. Here in Buenos Aires I am...
I've been waiting for the appearance of South America in Google Maps . The fun is no longer just limited to North America! As you can see in this satellite...
One of Argentina's greatest living writers, Ernesto Sabato, celebrates his 94th birthday today. ( I originally wrote this post in 2005. As Tom points out in...
Just a couple of blocks away, around the corner from our apartment is AMIA, the Jewish community center here in Buenos Aires. In an upcoming post, I'm going to...
It has been almost three months since I moved to Buenos Aires and now it's time for my first visa run out of the country. This time I'm going to Uruguay. I've...
Here's a wonderful photographic essay, Buenos Aires: the Ghost Train of the Cartoneros . Cartoneros are a visible part of daily life in Buenos Aires....
Last weekend an article appeared in Staunton News Leader about a family from Buenos Aires that had emigrated to Virginia in the U.S.; Staunton is a small town...
One small but potentially lucrative growth industry in Argentina is technology outsourcing. Costs here are low and the workforce is very educated. As US and...
Tonight Ceci and I went back to our favorite sushi restaurant in Buenos Aires, Ichisou. We actually haven't been back to Ichisou in two years but that was just...
One of the most colorful aspects of Spanish as it's practiced in Buenos Aires is the slang or lunfardo . Originating out of the working class immigrant...
In English there's the expression, "It's Greek to me" in reference to something that the speaker has no way of comprehending. In Spanish, or at least the way...
In this weekend's Ñ there is an article about blogging in Argentina . ( Ñ is the cultural and literary weekend paper published by the Clarin news group). One...
The minimum wage in Argentina is going up to $630 pesos/month (about US$217). The increase will impact almost a million workers.
I was delighted to see Marc Laporte's blog of his new life in Buenos Aires. He's an open source web developer from Montreal. The open source software movement...
"Buenos Aires - she is an old, elegant woman wearing a Bohemian hat." That's a great quote from Robin Sparks' account of Buenos Aires .
Just went into the kitchen to get some chocolate milk and looked out the sliding glass door. It's a very foggy morning here in Buenos Aires. Normally I can see...
When we don't feel like going out to eat or cooking, we will have something delivered from the restaurant on the corner, Zoe's. It's an average restaurant,...
Watching the local news tonight, I saw a segment about a new television network launched by Hugo Chavez out of Cuba called teleSUR . It has been called the...
My posting here has slowed down a little in the past couple of days as I start-up another blog El Sur, Travel in South America . That site will be mainly...
I have some photos of last week's protest marches over on my Flickr account at http://www.flickr.com/photos/jeffbarry/ . Take a look at social activism in...
Last night, Sunday, Ceci and I went out to eat dinner. We had finished off her 3 days of birthday celebrations on Saturday night with a party of friends,...
Looking around Buenos Aires it becomes obvious that not everyone here is of Spanish descent. That's not a new phenomenon, as Argentina has largely been a...
To celebrate Ceci's 32nd birthday, we went to one of the few (if not only) Indian restaurants in Buens Aires. Located at Córdoba 3547 Katmandu is a very good...
Relocating and Living in Argentina is a good source of information for those considering the move Buenos Aires.
Today's a national holiday, the celebration of 25 May 1810 in which the Spanish viceroyal Cisneros was disposed by the first Junta that would govern the land...
Over at the Thorn Tree a poster asked about neighborhoods around the University of Buenos Aires . I posted this reply: UBA has separate "campuses" all over the...
One of the mysteries of Buenos Aires is that one sees so few people of African descent. A native Porteño told me that there were no blacks in Argentina. And...
There's a really good blog about a newcomer's experiences in Argentina over at Expat Argentina . I've added it to my Bloglines.
Over on The Thorn Tree is a thread about one tourist's unsuccessful hunt for bargain clothing in BsAS. I posted a reply and wanted to elaborate here: As DF...
Tonight´s 10,000 person march by university faculty and students came to a somber stop just three blocks from the Plaza de Mayo. I was walking next to the...
Two blocks from our apartment is Plaza de Houssay, which is situated between the medical school and business school of the University of Buenos Aires. Tonight...
I got up early today, 11am, because I knew that the teachers union - CTERA - was planning a large march to the Congreso at midday. Across Argentina, 95% of the...
Following the student protests about the building conditions at the Escuela Normal Sarmiento, a city judge tonight ordered the school to be closed. The judge...
If the sun is shining in Buenos Aires, then there must be a strike. On this day of protests I went out for an afternoon walk to see what the proleteriat was up...
Employees of all the banks in Argentina went on strike today. With the exception of one small scuffle with the Police in front of the Casa Rosada, this was a...
Okay, so maybe that is a little dramatic but the high school students here are definitely asserting their political influences on issues important to them....
Over at the BANewcomers list has been a discussion about whether a lot of the locals in Buenos Aires go to psychologists, as is stated in one of the...
While the kids were protesting at the school (see previous post), a more violent skirmish was taking place a few blocks away near the Justice building as...
So proclaimed (in Spanish) the handwritten sign taped to the gates of the Escuela Normal Sarmiento on Av Callao. Starting Wednesday, students took over the...
In what could be the core of a P.D. James novel, two unrelated events this week are the focus of the art world in Buenos Aires. First, is the shocking double...
As if to dramatize the economic conditions, more than 3,500 women - all between the ages of 40& 60 - lined up in Recoleta Tuesday to apply for 40 openings at a...
In my ramblings through the Web today I came across the Global Voices Online site and its Monday World Blog Roundup. I really like what this group is...
Saturday night, after taking in a movie at Gaumont, we were walking around the Congreso area. As we strolled down calle Sarmiento, we noticed a large line of...
Last night we went out to dinner with our friends Ceci and Nestor, who picked us up in Nestor´s old Citroen. Cars from the French automaker are very common in...
I was going to the weekly march of the Madres de Plaza de Mayo when I got off the subte at the Catedral stop on Thursday. Walking across the street, I noticed...
A hundred years ago Buenos Aires was at its height. Argentina had one of the strongest economies in the world. Wealthy landowning families, profiting from...
There is no better way to understand the hardship facing Argentina than by examining the pay that people receive for a day´s work. In the northwestern town of...
First-run movie tickets at the Cinemark in trendy Puerto Madero is $6.75 pesos, about $2.50 in US dollars. Taxi runs about $7 pesos for about a 4 miles trip....
Buenos Aires lacks the outstanding colonial architecture of some Latin American cities, such as Lima or San Juan. Despite its presence on the Atlantic coast,...
March 22 (Miami International Airport) ”“ Tonight I´m leaving Miami, my home for the past five years, for my new home in Buenos Aires. Writing that seems...
Among the topics to be discussed in this blog...literature - Borges, Ocampo, Bioy Casares, Eloy Martinez, Cartazar, Sabato, Girondo, Sur, Norah Lange...music -...